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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Smedley, Larsen, and Anderson 1983
Page Views: 342 total, 4/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Nov 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This variation to Knight's Gambit is a great one pitch route with a good mix of different sytles of climbing. It should be adding to your one pitch cragging list for the area.

Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.

A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).

Location

The KGV is found on the south face of the Bookend.

Protection

Rack to 3 inches.

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