Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Smedley, Larsen, and Anderson 1983
Page Views: 378 total · 3/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Nov 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This variation to Knight's Gambit is a great one pitch route with a good mix of different sytles of climbing. It should be adding to your one pitch cragging list for the area.

Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.

A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).

Location

The KGV is found on the south face of the Bookend.

Protection

Rack to 3 inches.

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