Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Smedley, Larsen, and Anderson 1983
Page Views: 1,051 total · 6/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Nov 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Closure Notice DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This variation to Knight's Gambit is a great one pitch route with a good mix of different sytles of climbing. It should be adding to your one pitch cragging list for the area.

Follow a short, right-facing dihedral and then angle right to a short chimney with a hand crack. Follow the thin hands crack to the obvious traverse left at an old bolt. A 3 foot sling on your last piece in the crack is recommended. A 5.9+ face traverse past an old bolt (smallest TCU) leads to a fun, Lumpy-style, hand crack. This will deposit you below the final crux slab moves. They are protected by a 25 year old 1/4 incher, which is below you as you pull the crux. If this fails (R rating), a nice sloping ledge awaits your ankles. This is probably not a good route to push your limits on.

A modern 2 bolt anchor will put you on the ground (100 feet).

Location Suggest change

The KGV is found on the south face of the Bookend.

Protection Suggest change

Rack to 3 inches.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments