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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Chip Salaun
Page Views: 859 total, 6/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

The second to last of the long deep groves on the west end of the Bookend, this unknown gem sees few ascents, which is too bad for such a fun route.

Start at the bottom of Bombay Chimney (the next chimney to the left) and climb up about 40 feet to a large ledge on your right. Walk across the ledge and set your belay in the chimney.

Climb the chimney (lots of good holds to augment your chimney technique) and stretch the rope out until you get to a belay stance right as the chimney opens up and becomes flared.

Either stem or squeeze your way straight up, or follow flakes and face holds up the right wall of the chimney until it narrows and you can get back in. Head up easier ground to the top.

  • Soon after leaving the belay, the overall angle of this pitch eases off a bit, and rumor has it that someone fell and got their butt wedged in the chimney, getting stuck for hours.

Location

To get there, take the trail to the Bookmark and continue west (left) until you get to the base of the Bookend. Continue west until you get to the major chimneys and look for the very last one (more or less the end of the formation).

Protection

You can get by with a standard rack, but it's nice to have a #4 and #5 Camalot.

Photos

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