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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,547 total, 32/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This was my brother's and my first introduction to offwidth climbing.

The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.

The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 traverse on this pitch is the same as the 5.8 traverse on the third pitch of Orange Julius, although it is better protected due to the crack below it. Squeeze up an easy chimney and jam a 5.7 crack to a belay alcove (same belay as on Orange Julius).

From here, you can see a 100 foot vertical offwidth to the right; this is the third pitch. Downclimb (easier than you think) to the base of the offwidth, clip a large pin and start climbing. The offwidth starts out in the #2 to #3 Camalot range. The first 40 feet look hard but are only 5.8 due a good crack in the side of the offwidth that can be used as a layback. Get to a stance where you can place some TCUs. Above this, the crack widens to #5 Camalot size. 30 feet above this stance is the crux. Slide the #5 up as you go, the crux ends when a good crack can be found on the right that you can place pro in. Here the crack stays wide, but is lower angle and easy to the top, it also has good small-cam protection on the side. This is a good offwidth primer.

Protection

Rossiter's guidebook says bring a couple of #3 and #4 cams for this route. I have to wonder if Rossiter has ever done this route. The crux absolutely requires a #5 Camalot; #4s will not fit.
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.9+
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.9+
Climbed this last year with a nice local gentleman named Danny who led all the pitches. It was my first time in Lumpy, and I flailed badly.

Regardless it was a great day. Thank you, Danny. Sep 8, 2016
HughC  
So I am curious as to how the second pitch does not warrant a PG-13 or R rating. Although fairly typical for Lumpy, I thought the 20-25 ft runout on technical terrain was way spicy and would result in a huge whip if one blows it. Any thoughts why this isn't mentioned nor rated as such to warn folks (I haven't checked Gillett's book yet). Aug 25, 2016
Spencer V
Golden, CO
Spencer V   Golden, CO
Glad I read the comments before getting on this. I would have been in deep shit without a #6. I bumped it up for most of the OW pitch. I stayed closer to the lip of the crack, but if you really go in there a few feet, you could probably bump a #5. Jun 27, 2016
Mike Slavens
Houston, TX
Mike Slavens   Houston, TX
My buddy led this, and I just followed, but consensus was bring the #6. In fact bring two #6s if 5.9 offwidth is pushing your limits. That way you can leave the #5 lower where it's still in decent cam'ing range but also have a backup in case the #6 gets a little squirrelly when trying to walk it up. Jun 6, 2016
dannyn
Longmont
dannyn   Longmont
Great route, physical as you would expect due to all pitches having fist to offwidth sections. One of my favorites at Lumpy.
Regarding the 3rd pitch, walking #5 Camalot up 30+ feet feels a little scary. Sep 6, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
It's possible to get to the top of the P2 ledge from the ground with a single 60m rope. The P2 anchor takes finger-sized gear and nuts. We had doubles to #3, a #4, and a #6. I think a second #4 would have been nice for the first pitch, but you can run it out instead. Mar 30, 2015
Yonkonian Yonkers
Fort Collins, CO
 
Yonkonian Yonkers   Fort Collins, CO
 
Superb. Top to bottom one of the most splitter routes at Lumpy. Reminiscient of Vedawoo. Didn't use my #5 at all on the ow pitch. A #4 and hand-sized pieces sufficed for the first half. A #6 is mandatory unless you like running out offwidths. Felt insecure compaired to most of the ow climbing I've done. Kept trying to spit me out through the crux. Jun 20, 2013
J1.
Boulder, Colorado
 
J1.   Boulder, Colorado
 
Great Route. Bring the #6 if you don't want to run out the crux off-width. I pushed a #5 Camalot as far as it would go and you still have about 10-15 feet of OW before you can get some small to finger size gear in (and that seemed like the hardest part). Felt pretty commiting without a #6. Oct 17, 2011
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
Used #5 Camalot (old style) then #1 RP on right wall (not totally bomber but seemed worth placing) above that before placing the good gear that comes after the OW crux on P3; nice juxtaposition of gear sizes. I wore shorts-don't do that! Aug 9, 2009
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
I second that...if you own a #6 camalot or a #6 wild country bring it. the number five tipped out as i got a green alien in a small fissure. I walked the cam as far as i could. with a 70 meter rope you can make this into 2 pitches. Jul 12, 2008
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
Bring the #6. Jul 1, 2008
Willow Toso
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Willow Toso   Salt Lake City, UT
 
My partner was well protected walking a BD C4 #6 cam through the crux. When the angle lessens the crack is wider than #6, but he got nuts and small cams in. Fun route. Jul 9, 2007
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
This is a climb worth repeating. Great jams. Delicate face moves and finally some off-widthing on P3. Not for someone looking to break into 5.9 but it is to be recommended for someone looking for moderate off-width climbing, as the section requiring true OW form is short. I carried an old style 4.5 Camalot and a new, C3 #5 Camalot. Slid the 4.5 as far as comfortable. Then slid the #5 up the widening crack as far as I could without going to umbrella mode but I was about a body length above it while pulling the crux moves, and 15 feet or more out at the next good rest. Jul 23, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
As S. Kimball wrote, "a route with a little bit of everything." For P1, perhaps some larger hexes (a.k.a. gull whackers to Brits) in addition to double #2 & #3 Camalots (since it stays fairly wide) might be useful. P2 is a blast! For P3, there are few mandatory OW moves since you can face climb, lieback, jam, stem, and even use face holds inside the crack. There are great rests on P3. P4 60m cruise to the top. Great route! Jun 14, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
This is a great climb. I did the first two pitches as one (i.e., the fist crack and the 5.8 traverse) and belayed from a good stance at the base of the wide flare at the end of the traverse. This worked out very well. The OW is super fun and well protected with a #5 (as suggested) and supplemental TCUs on the right side. Jun 5, 2006
Thad
 
Thad  
 
As Patrick suggested, I would bring 2 #2 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots for the first pitch. My partner managed to leap-frog gear, but I wouldn't want to wish such a lead on anybody. I was fairly psyched to get a good orange TCU at the top of the crack on pitch 2 before the traverse. Walking the #5 is the way to go for pitch 3...unless you are soloing. Oct 11, 2003
The #5 was very nice to have after I placed the 4.5, although I did end up sliding it up with me for about 30 feet. Jul 13, 2003
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
How about if you've just turned 30, live a few hours north of Colorado Springs, and have a rather small set of cahones; do you think a #4 would suffice? May 6, 2002
Crusty  
Bring the #5 Camalot unless you're from Colorado Springs and well over 40 years old (in that case a #2 will be adequate). Had the #4.5 on my last ascent and it was pretty tipped out and not inspiring a lot of confidence. May 5, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Thanks Charles, just talked to Darin Lang, and he said he might let us borrow his #5... I have a 2 bigbro, but, [I'm] not totally [proficient] at placing those yet! Anyway this route is [definitely] on my 'soon' list as I am just getting back in the swing from an injury...so, thanks for the info! BTW - Darin said you guys had a blast in IC, rock on! Apr 16, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Joe, the first time I went up to do this route I was armed with a #4 Camalot per Rossiter (I think he might even say #4 Friend!). The lobes were barely touching and that was after finding the narrowest spot in the upper crack. A 4.5 would be adequate but not great, a 5 would be perfect (although you will still probably want to slide it up with you). There is also a small RP placement behind a loose flake. After the crux, a good crack inside the offwidth takes excellent pro (and your hands). The whole climb is excellent. In all seriousness, from the bottom of P3 it might be worth doing the 50 foot hand traverse on Orange Julius and then coming back to the belay! Apr 15, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Thanks for the info Pat! I'll let you know what I find...can't wait to get up there again!!! Apr 15, 2002
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
It's been a while but I seem to remember a number five being essential. My brother might remember.

=pat Apr 14, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Nice addition! I was reading your description as I will be up here soon... Curious, is a 4.5 cam adequate for the crux, or do you have to have the 5 with you? Apr 12, 2002