Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,037 total · 36/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This was my brother's and my first introduction to offwidth climbing.

The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.

The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 traverse on this pitch is the same as the 5.8 traverse on the third pitch of Orange Julius, although it is better protected due to the crack below it. Squeeze up an easy chimney and jam a 5.7 crack to a belay alcove (same belay as on Orange Julius).

From here, you can see a 100 foot vertical offwidth to the right; this is the third pitch. Downclimb (easier than you think) to the base of the offwidth, clip a large pin and start climbing. The offwidth starts out in the #2 to #3 Camalot range. The first 40 feet look hard but are only 5.8 due a good crack in the side of the offwidth that can be used as a layback. Get to a stance where you can place some TCUs. Above this, the crack widens to #5 Camalot size. 30 feet above this stance is the crux. Slide the #5 up as you go, the crux ends when a good crack can be found on the right that you can place pro in. Here the crack stays wide, but is lower angle and easy to the top, it also has good small-cam protection on the side. This is a good offwidth primer.

Protection Suggest change

Rossiter's guidebook says bring a couple of #3 and #4 cams for this route. I have to wonder if Rossiter has ever done this route. The crux absolutely requires a #5 Camalot; #4s will not fit.

Per Matt Piscopo: for ample protection, bring a double rack to #3, one #4, and one #6. A #5 can be placed in the beginning of the "offwidth," but a solid 0.5 can be placed 4 feet below the #5 placement in a horizontal. A #6 can be pushed up for 20' from secure stances to where additional small gear can be found.

Comments below mention that a #5 is absolutely necessary for the crux. This was true at one time, when BD #5s were larger and almost the size as the modern #6.

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