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Routes in The Bookend
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Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 480 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Sokol & Pomerance |
| Page Views: | 5,785 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Apr 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a great introduction to chimney climbing at Lumpy. Two full pitches up a chimney lead to a nice right-facing corner (with a Bombay slot), which takes you to the top of the Bookend. The route is moderate and the protection is plentiful. Bring kneepads and trail your pack from your harness for the first two pitches or leave it at the base.
This route begins about 15 meters uphill from Orange Julius in the large dihedral/chimney. Some easy scrambling is required to get to the base of this route. This route is easily viewed from the approach trail.
This route begins about 15 meters uphill from Orange Julius in the large dihedral/chimney. Some easy scrambling is required to get to the base of this route. This route is easily viewed from the approach trail.
Estes Park, CO
Estes Park
Westminster, Colorado
Kneepads? Ha Ha... Yeah I don't really know what to say about that. I posted this page a long time ago. Still, it's humbling to see that I was such a gumby in the Spring of '01.
I remember those times fondly though... when 5.7 at Lumpy was a big number and 4 pitches took most of a day. Good stuff.
Brad Feb 7, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
P1: The first pitch is nearly a full rope length with a 60m. Easy squeeze chimney off the ground (5.6ish), with a relatively difficult bulge about 50' up (probably 5.7; easily visible from the ground). After this bulge, the angle immediately drops off, and the climbing eases. There's ample large and small placements to be found. After another 100' or so of easy climbing, you come to a large chockstone in the low-angle chimney. Apparently this is the crux of the pitch, but there's no exposure and the protection is good. It looks like you can go either right or left past the chockstone. I went left. It was awkward but not too difficult. After this, it's easy climbing to an obvious belay ledge. 190'.
P2: Follow easy climbing on the right until you come to a small, well-protected bulge. Solid handjams and good feet allow you to easily pass over this. Easy climbing leads to another chockstone, which, again, looks like it can be passed on either the right or the left. I went left, using solid feet and lie-backing the chockstone to pass over it. Easy climbing to an absolutely huge ledge. 120'.
P3: Follow an angling crack up and right. The crux is probably about 30' off the belay. You climb to a small cave, and then need to climb out of the cave to gain the crack proper. I placed pro deep in the cave, which ended up screwing me with rope drag later on, but it was nice to have pro before committing to the move. After you gain the crack, it's all solid handjams and great feet. In my opinion, P3 is by far the best pitch of the climb. Follow the crack until it ends (don't be tempted to bust left onto easier ground), and then move as far to the left as possible and follow easy, grooved climbing to the summit. 170'.
I stole the pitch length estimates from Leo Paik. They seemed dead on to me.
This was a great climb, not particularly sustained (except for P3), but each pitch had at least a couple 5.7 moves, and protection was ample throughout. Route finding is incredibly easy. The description calls it a "great intro to Lumpy chimney climbing" and I think that's dead on. The first pitch was especially strenuous and awkward. Really a fun climb though, and worth doing. May 18, 2012
Bozeman, MT
Be sure to bring some Purell for the chimney-to-mantel on p2. There's bird-shit galore! Jul 23, 2014
Fargo, ND
Fort Collins, CO
Loveland, Co