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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: some casual chipmunk
Page Views: 590 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the chimney on the right side of the slot that goes up to Sorcerer, Climb of the Ancient Mariner, and Treebeard, among others. You wouldn't opt to do this pitch unless you like fighting scratchy bushes, find the left crack running with water from rain or snow, or you're just a chimney lover.

From the starting ledge, stem out right to the chimney. Fight, scratch, grovel, chimney upwards. A #3 Camalot and #4 Camalot (old size) were useful early in this pitch. There are still some loose blocks in here. Fired off one fist-sized bugger that pretended to be a foothold. You'll find at least 4 scratchy bushes to fight in here. It sort of reminds you of Organ Pipes with added bushes.

Location

This is in the slot on the right side where you'd normally approach Sorcerer/Ancient Mariner/Treebeard.

Protection

A few wires, cams to #4 Camalot (old size), a few large hexes, long sleeve shirt, & a lack of aversion to scratches.

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