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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: George Hurley & Bill Forrest, 1971
Page Views: 511 total, 3/month
Shared By: Erik Corkran on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Counting left to right from Bombay Chimney, this is the 5th chimney line on the Bookend. It begins in a large chimney just left of a bolted route. This is a nice route, though I did not find it as good as Corinthian Column or Bombay.

P1. Enter the fairly easy but grungy gully/chimney through the bushes or come in from the left (better), climb into a tighter chimney and through a pinch to belay, 5.8+ or so, 100 feet.

P2, crux. Continue up (past a crumbly crack) to the steep flared chimney. Pass the flared pinch, insecure, 5.9+, which becomes much easier after about 20'. I found this more difficult than the section of Turnkorner labelled 10a 12" Squeeze (below the roof crux pitch) on the Rossiter topo, so graded it 5.9+ instead of 5.9. Also more difficult than other 5.9 chimneys in the area. The extra gear mentioned is for this pitch. I shoved a #4 Camalot along for quite a ways, sometimes leapfrogging with a mostly-tipped-out #3. Belay at a ledge with a big boulder, or continue for 30 feet of handcrack with a couple of chimney moves to another good belay.

P3. Climb the crack just mentioned (if you haven't already) which turns into a chimney, and continue to a big ledge, 5.8 or so, 140 feet.

P4. Walk left along the big ledge and climb the crack that stops about 5 feet off the ledge (this pitch and the next are the same as for Corinthian Column).

P5. Cross to the main buttress and climb big jugs for 150 feet to the summit, one nice crack section in the middle of the pitch (optional).

Descend the trail in the gully between the Bookend and Left Book / Bookmark.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot or equivalent, RPs not needed, but some stoppers useful. Include several pieces in the #3-#4 Camalot size.

Photos

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