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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 460 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown chipmunk
Page Views: 823 total, 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a less-traveled, low-end difficulty route on the right side of the Bookend. Its interesting and enjoyable 2nd pitch ascends the last signficant, left-facing dihedral on the right end of the cliff. The first pitch (partially shared with Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner) can be wet for a few days after a good rain or snow. Its easterly aspect makes for a warmer warmup when west-facing or shaded south-facing aren't quite ready.

From the trail near the base of Orange Julius & Great Dihedral, scramble up and right (3rd to 4th class) up ledges and ramps to the base of the wide slot where Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner begin.

P1. Ascend the slot with the crack on the left side (when dry) or the chimney on the right (when all other options are wet) to a comfortable area with a tree with rappel slings and a rap ring. ~110', 5.6.

P2. Move up and left in a groove ~60' to a large, left-facing dihedral with a very wide crack. Using a variety of techniques, ascend this corner. Use pro on the right wall at times (wires, blue Alien), sling a chockstone, and get to a stance about 135' up. Here, the wall gets smoother and the edge of the crack rounds out. Find a short, leftward traverse (0 TCU) to move into the next crack left (can seep with water). Make a belay in this wide crack (#9, 10 hexes, #3.5 Camalot). ~160', 5.7.

P3. Here you have a few choices. You can angle right in a bushy groove (fixed #8 wire) to rejoin the left-facing dihedral or you can opt to move left into a 5.8 small, left-facing dihedral. ~70' up, you can continue up the left-facing dihedral or move out right onto easier, coarser rock. A 50m rope will not reach the summit. ~200', 5.6.

Descend/scramble off the back of the formation.

Location

This is on the east side of the Bookend. It skirts right of Sorcerer.

Protection

Wires, hexes #9-11 (useful), cams #0 TCU to #4 Camalot. Something huge if you're going to try to protect that wide crack directly on P2. 60m rope is preferred.

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