Type: | Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown chipmunk |
Page Views: | 1,627 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 9, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a less-traveled, low-end difficulty route on the right side of the Bookend. Its interesting and enjoyable 2nd pitch ascends the last signficant, left-facing dihedral on the right end of the cliff. The first pitch (partially shared with Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner) can be wet for a few days after a good rain or snow. Its easterly aspect makes for a warmer warmup when west-facing or shaded south-facing aren't quite ready.
From the trail near the base of Orange Julius & Great Dihedral, scramble up and right (3rd to 4th class) up ledges and ramps to the base of the wide slot where Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner begin.
P1. Ascend the slot with the crack on the left side (when dry) or the chimney on the right (when all other options are wet) to a comfortable area with a tree with rappel slings and a rap ring. ~110', 5.6.
P2. Move up and left in a groove ~60' to a large, left-facing dihedral with a very wide crack. Using a variety of techniques, ascend this corner. Use pro on the right wall at times (wires, blue Alien), sling a chockstone, and get to a stance about 135' up. Here, the wall gets smoother and the edge of the crack rounds out. Find a short, leftward traverse (0 TCU) to move into the next crack left (can seep with water). Make a belay in this wide crack (#9, 10 hexes, #3.5 Camalot). ~160', 5.7.
P3. Here you have a few choices. You can angle right in a bushy groove (fixed #8 wire) to rejoin the left-facing dihedral or you can opt to move left into a 5.8 small, left-facing dihedral. ~70' up, you can continue up the left-facing dihedral or move out right onto easier, coarser rock. A 50m rope will not reach the summit. ~200', 5.6.
Descend/scramble off the back of the formation.
From the trail near the base of Orange Julius & Great Dihedral, scramble up and right (3rd to 4th class) up ledges and ramps to the base of the wide slot where Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner begin.
P1. Ascend the slot with the crack on the left side (when dry) or the chimney on the right (when all other options are wet) to a comfortable area with a tree with rappel slings and a rap ring. ~110', 5.6.
P2. Move up and left in a groove ~60' to a large, left-facing dihedral with a very wide crack. Using a variety of techniques, ascend this corner. Use pro on the right wall at times (wires, blue Alien), sling a chockstone, and get to a stance about 135' up. Here, the wall gets smoother and the edge of the crack rounds out. Find a short, leftward traverse (0 TCU) to move into the next crack left (can seep with water). Make a belay in this wide crack (#9, 10 hexes, #3.5 Camalot). ~160', 5.7.
P3. Here you have a few choices. You can angle right in a bushy groove (fixed #8 wire) to rejoin the left-facing dihedral or you can opt to move left into a 5.8 small, left-facing dihedral. ~70' up, you can continue up the left-facing dihedral or move out right onto easier, coarser rock. A 50m rope will not reach the summit. ~200', 5.6.
Descend/scramble off the back of the formation.
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