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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Snivley, sort of
Page Views: 399 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Apr 2, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Not really a route, per se, but in the event you're going to get weathered off of Sorcerer, this traverse allows for retreat without leaving a bunch of gear in that funky crack.

From points along the Sorcerer dihedral that are roughly even with the P1 anchors on Climb of the Ancient Mariner, it is possible to traverse the slab leftward and reach the anchors after about 20 or so feet of protection-free “5.9” slab climbing. From this bolted anchor, one can escape from the face with one ~33 meter rappel, or a 30 m rappel with a bit of 5.6 downclimbing.

Protection

None, and a fall is ill advised as it would swing you back into the Sorcerer corner. It's likely that anybody who has led P2 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner without sweating wouldn't have much trouble making the traverse safely.

Nota Bene

Once the leader makes the Climb of the Ancient Mariner anchors, the second can either follow the slab or make a reasonable downclimb/pendulum out of the Sorcerer corner. Obviously, utilizing this traverse as an escape would require recognizing oncoming weather in a timely fashion and setting up a belay at an appropriate spot along P1 of Sorcerer, as my partner and I conveniently did.

Interestingly, as a historical note, Doug Snivley probably first covered this ground in the opposite direction after completing the first ascent of P1 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, belayed by a client, as I understand.

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Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
A great day on the book end. Did ancient Mariner, I'm glad at the time I didn't lead the 2nd pitch, but later in the day we hopped on Sorcerer and on P2 I took the wrong left dihedral and ended out on 5.9+ run out on manky gear. Instead on moving right to the roof of Sorcerer, I ran it out to the last bolt on Mariner. Maybe a posssible (X). This should be considered the Sorcerer to Mariner Variation!! Jun 4, 2012