Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|FA:||sarah hayden, slim shaky|
|Page Views:||1,033 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Oct 6, 2010|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Previously (4/24/19): please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
begin with easy climbing up some chinle to the base of a left facing dihedral. the dihedral starts fingers and quickly goes to thin hands for a short section. then comes a low angled left facing, right leaning flake on glorious hands for about 70 feet to anchors on the left wall.
scout was kind of an accidental FA. the bloom book shows an unnamed 5.9 flake to the left of unnamed #38. we figured the book was wrong and that the 5.9 flake was to the right of unnamed #38. the book is still wrong (there is no 5.9 flake to the left of unnamed #38). but, we were too....
anway, i was getting impatient and told my old lady to head up that there crack. she asked if i saw any anchors up there. i thought i saw something that might be a bolt up there. the route was only supposed to be 75' tall. after climbing a while she asked how much rope was out. i yelled out that there was a ton of rope, and then looked down and saw the halfway mark just below my belay hand. this worked out pretty well, as the crack turned into a pile of dirt and whithered away just in time to not need to horse around with a 2nd rope.