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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 21 - aka 'every bit of awkward' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 RF flake just R of knobby tires T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 345 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 11, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route is marked by a right facing corner that goes through two large roofs. Start with slightly chossy but easy rock to a nice set of parallel thin finger cracks, one in a right facing corner and the other on the face with white calcite. The cracks gradually open up and get easier until you get to the first roof. Once you have pulled the roof make sure to place a piece out left or your rope will get stuck in the crack below for sure! Continue up through the more difficult second roof and traverse right to the anchors. A great route, get on it! Save some finger size pieces for the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Right of "Lift Kit".

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 each .3 to #2 Camalot, 1 Blue Alien and lots of runners. 70m rope.

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slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
good call on placing the piece to avoid your rope jamming in the roof. good route that is more merciful than it looks. Apr 13, 2012
kirkadirka
Boulder
 
kirkadirka   Boulder
 
This thing is a choss pile with lots of poor quality rock. One of the anchor bolts was also loose. May 16, 2012
aschmidt  
 
The guidebook compares this route to Layaway Plan. If that route had loose, dirty, sharp rock, a crappy anchor and a rope eating crack, it would be a fair comparison. The anchor is two machine bolts hammered into the rock with homemade anchors that are too small to clip a biner into. Nov 4, 2014

More About Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs

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