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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 21 - aka 'every bit of awkward' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 RF flake just R of knobby tires T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Steve Hong ?
Page Views: 2,162 total · 19/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

Superb and sustained fingers in a corner, broken with some pods, face features and some rests. The crux is in the initial section. Above, good faceholds take some of the "bite" out of it. This thing is long and well worth the trip.

Location [Edit]

This is just right of Unnamed 5.11- and just left of the side-by-side Unnamed 5.10+ and Unnamed 5.10 that share the same anchor. Starts with an initial section of sandy rock in the corner that is easily scrambled before climbing the right-facing corner.

Protection [Edit]

A bunch (6-8) of finger size pieces, gray and purple Camalots with a couple smaller (green Alien size) and a couple each bigger up to #2 Camalot. 2 ropes.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I'm pretty sure this is a Steve Hong route based on the old "SH" stamped aluminum hangers at the top. Nov 3, 2008
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Great route! Neither Bloom's guide nor the above post mention this route starts on top of a 15' pillar in the starting corner- that will help you find it! Felt pretty hard about 15' up, but it seemed to have multiple cruxy sections. I'd say its one of the best i've done at the creek. I'd recommend a comfy rack of 4 blue metolius, 8 yellow, 8 orange, 4 red, and a couple 2.5 friends. This route is loooooong! Nov 4, 2008

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