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Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 7
votes
Routes in 4X4
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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lift Kit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Monster Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tranny Trouble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 21 - aka 'every bit of awkward' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 RF flake just R of knobby tires T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,085 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Apr 11, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19
Details
See the comment below for details or the or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
Previously (4/24/19): please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Previously (4/24/19): please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou….
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This route has two starts, the left one is a sweet fingers to off fingers splitter which is what we did. The right one we didn't do but it looked like it starts out as .4 Camalots in a corner and then gets bigger.
Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.
Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.
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