Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,038 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Apr 11, 2012 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
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saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route has two starts, the left one is a sweet fingers to off fingers splitter which is what we did. The right one we didn't do but it looked like it starts out as .4 Camalots in a corner and then gets bigger.
Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.
Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.
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