Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
FA: brandon gottung, wade plafcan
Page Views: 1,145 total · 15/month
Shared By: Wade Plafcan on Oct 6, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This pitch is the 2nd pitch above the route Country. THe true 1st pitch of country is hardly done, we thought it was an FA but there are anchors is you follow the natural line above the 50 foot anchor on country, keep going up through off width stemming corner to where the #4 size crack angles sharp right. The 1st 2 bolt anchor is here.

Above this is Dashboard Jesus, a beautiful varnished splitter to right facing dihedral. This is a stunning line that gives you everything from offwidth pods to tight fingers at the top. The 2nd pitch we think is about 130 feet, but may go with a 70 to the country anchor. Bring a tag line to be sure though.

Location

Follow the line above and right of Country

Protection

Doubles, with either a 5 or 6 for the off width before the corner. 4-5 # 4 camelots would not go unused. After the corner is reached, the crack goes from hands down to blue metolius. A smaller piece before the anchor could be used as well.

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