Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 867 total · 6/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a very fun and varied line with a scary start. Boulder up the fractured face and corner placing good gear. Place a piece (green Alien fits best) in a hollow flake just before busting out hard moves (with some sand) to the ledge above...A fall here could be grim! I'm not so sure about the integrity of the hollow flake.

Head up the slot and jam the fun, wavy (mostly #2 Camalot and some #1's) flake/crack. Enter the relatively easy (and protectable) squeeze chimney (#2 - #.5 Camalots). Pull through the small roof on good jams (#1 Camalots). Finish the climb through a thinning corner switch on mostly #.75 to slightly tighter jams and then an anchor. Killer!!

Location Suggest change

This is about 2 routes right of Monster Truck and left of "Unnamed 5.11" with 2 bolts

Protection Suggest change

Camalots: #.2 - #3, one green Alien, lots of runners (Recommendation in Bloom Guide basically spot-on), 70M rope will NOT work


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