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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown OW T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 109 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a very fun and varied line with a scary start. Boulder up the fractured face and corner placing good gear. Place a piece (green Alien fits best) in a hollow flake just before busting out hard moves (with some sand) to the ledge above...A fall here could be grim! I'm not so sure about the integrity of the hollow flake.

Head up the slot and jam the fun, wavy (mostly #2 Camalot and some #1's) flake/crack. Enter the relatively easy (and protectable) squeeze chimney (#2 - #.5 Camalots). Pull through the small roof on good jams (#1 Camalots). Finish the climb through a thinning corner switch on mostly #.75 to slightly tighter jams and then an anchor. Killer!!

Location

This is about 2 routes right of Monster Truck and left of "Unnamed 5.11" with 2 bolts

Protection

Camalots: #.2 - #3, one green Alien, lots of runners (Recommendation in Bloom Guide basically spot-on), 70M rope will NOT work

Photos

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Agreed about the headiness of the mantle onto the ledge. There is a #1 Camalot placement that one can get that is slightly more reliable than the green Alien piece, but it's tricky to find. I also used a #4 Camalot in the squeeze chimney. Maybe I missed something, maybe it was the early September sandiness, but at the time it seemed like a necessary piece to avoid an insecure and runout part of the chimney. Still, pulling over the roof and the thin hands/stacking corner above is spectacular. Oct 29, 2011