Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,265 total · 13/month
Shared By: Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


46 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):
"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."

Location Suggest change

Second line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27, 2014):

(4).5, (3).75 & #1, (5)#2, (2)#3 & #4 Camalots. A 5 piece bolt w/ hanger and a wedge bolt w/ bandito hanger with chain and links make up the anchor. Also a 70m rope just reaches.

Photos

loading