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Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British


 Avg: 3 from 7 votes

Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown OW T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 881 total · 9/month
Shared By: Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):
"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."

Location

First line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.

Protection

Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27, 2014):
(4).5, (3).75 & #1, (5)#2, (2)#3 & #4 Camalots. A bolt and an angle equalized with cord and webbing make up the anchor. Also a 70m rope just reaches.

Photos

Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
This could really use an new anchor. The old Banditos hanger and tat is not the best. Also you can easily get down with an 80m rope. Jan 4, 2018
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
generally i try to avoid naming routes, but if it had bandito hangers i don't have too much of an issue with it. would anybody out there be upset if i renamed this one "bandito route" ?

i would add the route other "lift kit" route, but i can't remember the gear at the start that protects the mantle sort of move. maybe purple tcu or something? May 1, 2017
How about we call this one the Bandito Corner?

And perhaps create a new entry for the non-trivial/maybe it's Lift Kit rattly-finger exercise immediately left of Marshmallow Safari. More like .11+. I didn't lead it. Apr 30, 2017
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
there was another entry for this route, so i combined them into duncan's entry. hopefully that clears things up a bit. Aug 16, 2016
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I think this is a duplicate of the route to the left in the MP listing. It's pretty stout for 10+, might could call a few moves 11a, but not sustained at that grade. In any case, this route description is more accurate for the photo I posted, e.g. the beginning takes 0.5's until the crack widens at ~20-30' to 0.75s and then a brief #4 to OW pod before the cruiser 2s and 3s above. Aug 15, 2016
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
i think that is a route that used to have a plaque that said "lift kit" (although there was already a route by that name at 4x4). it starts with kind of a funky mantle sort of move into an off fingers splitter over a little roof, and then moves around a minor arete to the left into a steep corner? pretty long? would be pretty hard for 10+ ? May 26, 2016
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
If this is the crack just left of Marshmellow, I'd recommend at least one .4 for the first 20 feet of not trivial climbing. May 25, 2016
Paul Irby
moab, ut
Paul Irby   moab, ut
This has a Banditos hanger at the anchor! Sep 7, 2015
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
This thing is definitely .5 camalots at the start which gradually widen to baggy .75s or super tight #1's. Then there is another section of .5's followed by a short OW and about 60' of hands to the anchor. The crack doesn't get wider the higher you go it is pretty much a hand crack all the way to the anchor with a few pods. Also a 70m rope does reach the ground from the anchor. May 29, 2014
you know, now i look more carefully, bloom says there's about 400 ft between #4 and MS. Oct 13, 2009
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
duncan,

is this the first or second line to the left of marshmallow safari? for some reason i thought there was a route called lift kit just to the left of MS (steep off fingers, merges into an overhanging hands and bigger corner).

thanks for the addition! Oct 13, 2009

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