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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown OW T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 958 total · 9/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb an initial section of wide crack from #3 to #4 Camalot in size. Step left when possible to climb an easy crack in the corner underneath the roof. At the roof, go right, pulling through the first roof via a layback and then pulling through a second roof just above. Finish with good jams before a "surprise" wide section at the top. If you want to protect the wide section at the top, bring a big piece (#6 Camalot ?) or run it out until you can reach around left to place a piece in the left crack before manteling to the anchors. A good, varied climb, especially if you don't mind doing a little bit of wide climbing.

Location

To the right of Variety Pack, Unnamed 5.10+, and Unnamed 5.10 is this obvious left-leaning wide crack with two roofs above. Starts in the crack on the face with huecos to the right of a right-facing corner system. Plaque at the base.

Protection

Double set of cams from .5 Camalot to #4 Camalot with maybe an extra in the #3 and #4 size.

Photos

Brian Zielinski
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Brian Zielinski   Salt Lake City, UT
 
For a more sustained climb, avoid the crack to the left of the wide stuff for continued rattly fists and a fun OW stembox to the roof. The left crack does protect well but be sure to extend with long runners. I had 3 BD 4s and 4 BD 3s and felt good. Also an advocate for the 6. After the roofs, you'll want some mental pro getting into the wide stuff up top. Solid 5.11 climbing; sandbag your friends. Sep 28, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Getting up the initial wide crack is protectable with #4 camalot and smaller. Agreed that having a #6 for the last 20 feet is very much appreciated. Mar 24, 2015
Fulford  
Not sure you'll get off this with a 60m rope. 110'? Apr 10, 2014
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
 
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
 
Didn't find the 6 necessary...actually only took a 4.5 and placed at the first roof.. You can escape left at the top and avoid the OW and have a fun finger crack to hand jam...REALLY ENJOYED THIS ROUTE!!!!! solid 11 Jun 26, 2013
Toby Tittle  
5.11
Bring the #6 Camalot. Jun 24, 2013