Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,109 total · 8/month
Shared By: chrisp on Jun 12, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The crux is reading the route. It has an inobvious offwidth to it that requires a #5 camelot. It was sandy when I did it and there was a large detached flake half the size of a car door that could fall off- dont be discouraged this was an engaging route with cool stemming, offwidth etc

Location

Route is located to the far right of 4x4. Plaque at the base identifies the route as well as it being adjacent to a large pillar/ chimney system. All I had at the time was a possibly short 60m. A full 70m rope will most likely make it to the deck

Protection

upto old #5 camelot for the offwidth. a bevy of handsized gear, some smaller stuff for the top just below the anchor 0.75 camelots

Photos

slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
top is kind of tougher than it looks. interesting route. Oct 4, 2010
EDIT 3/12/18: Beta photo now is definitely linkage as confirmed by the FA KK. There is a plaque. Bring a few small finger pieces to protect the OW/chimney section Mar 19, 2013
Any consensus on whether the route photo is actually of Linkage or of this Unnamed 5.10?

mountainproject.com/v/unnam…

I don't have the Bloom guide book handy, and I've heard that it has some mistakes for routes at the far right of the wall (starting around Collision Course maybe?).

I climbed the pictured route a couple of days ago and found the offwidth to be burly and a bit hard to protect without a #5 or #6 Camalot. A 70m is fine for rapping or TR. A TR here will also let you play around in the easy yet unprotectable chimney just to the left (we jokingly called it "Strut", though surely someone else has climbed it before). May 2, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
No, the photo currently posted is not Linkage. This route sits around the right of a large detached flake/block/pillar. Right before the flake/block/pillar reads a plaque: "Knobby Tires." Since Linkage is to the left of Knobby Tires, this can't be Linkage. May 27, 2013
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
The guidebook may not be correct, but many posters here may not be correct either. Mar 28, 2015
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
i moved the old beta photo to 'unknown 10 left of variety pack'. the current photo shown above is linkage (per karl kelley, who put it up). hopefully that helps organize this area a bit. Aug 31, 2016
This climb is out of order here (and in the book). It is way right of knobby tires and right of the climb in the photo posted as "Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack" by about 100 feet or so. Plaque at base. Also the route pictured for "Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10" is clearly out of place/misnamed as it is way right of Variety Pack. Mar 12, 2018
This route is a couple routes RIGHT of Knobby Tires. Protect the chimney stem with small gear inside the inset wide crack on the right. Leave the big gear behind if you climb it this way. Mar 12, 2018
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
thanks for the comments 303scott and dmsssss sinor, i made a few adjustments. it has been quite a while since i have been up there, so if it still looks screwed up let me know. thanks! Mar 12, 2018