Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,351 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Ewing on Nov 16, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A slightly chossy, but easy first few feet gain a gorgeous 4-camalot crack in a left-facing corner. Jam or layback up this OW to the obvious "ear" feature and layback out the flake to a rest. A few awkward moves of flared OW lead back into the corner, which is now tight 4.5 camalots...just small enough not to let your knee in. At the top, traverse to the Crankcase anchors via a balancy foot traverse.

Location

Just right of Crankcase in the corner.

Protection

Maybe one each 1-3.5 camalots, a bunch of 4 and 4.5 camalots

Photos

snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
Guidebook rates this 12- Oct 12, 2010
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
This climb is 5.11, it may be extremely sustained, but there are no moves that warrant a 5.12 rating.

Gear: green camalot gets you off the ground, 4x #4 camalots (new) get you to the "ear" flake, after that it's un-varying mid-range #5 camalot (new) so walk two the whole way and you're set.

Traverse to the Crankcase anchors is pretty exciting when you're tired Sep 26, 2011
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
Bloom's guide calls this 130' - my 70m got me down, even with the traverse at the end and directionals in place

1x .75 camalot
4-5x #4 camalot
2-3x #5 camalot Nov 1, 2016