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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown OW T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,073 total, 19/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Superb thin-hands and hands climbing in a right-facing corner on great rock. A pod up high, shortly before the anchor is the greatest difficulty for most. Great face features throughout this climb offer ample rests and a break for the feet.

[editors note: there were 2 entries for the same route. i kept the older entry and have included the second entry with these notes.]

per Devin Fin 'mostly hands lil wide at the top but not hard, 10a'

Location

Just left of Variety Pack. Scramble onto a ledge to reach this right facing corner.

[per Devin Fin - 'around the right side up on a ledge. cool hang']


Protection

Many red to gold Camalots with a green and a #4.

[per Devin Fin - 'red camalots to #4s'

Photos

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10+
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10+
Anchor is in bad shape and needs to be upgraded ASAP. Two 3/8" bolts, right one moves a lot and is very loose. Left one also moves some. Didn't want to trust my life to one sort of good 3/8" bolt, so left a #2 camalot as back up, equalized with the better bolt. Hopefully the new anchor fairies can get this one fixed soon. Sep 29, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
5.10
2.5 friends work nice (3-4) a big piece and 1-2 ea. #2 & #3 camalot Mar 19, 2017
A0hero
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
I can confirm that this was unnamed 5.11- in Bloom's old book... Definitely harder than 10- Apr 7, 2013
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Yes, I also saw the plaque at the base - it's called Hookers and Blow. Jun 2, 2010
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.10+
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.10+
yes this is a splitter not a corner Jan 28, 2010
Alex Garhart
  5.10d
Alex Garhart  
  5.10d
There is a placard at the base that reads "Hookers and Blow 10+". Great climb. Oct 14, 2009
Ed L
Slowida
Ed L   Slowida
This route is a splitter, just to the left of Variety Pack. Great warm up. Nov 29, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I may have double listed this route. There's an Unnamed 5.10 already included here but it doesn't say anything about being in a corner, which would seem to be some obvious beta for finding the route. Perhaps someone can clear up the confusion and can feel free to remove this route if it is indeed double listed.

The Bloom guide lists this route as 5.11- but it's probably more like 5.10+, in my opinion. Nov 3, 2008