Hookers 'n Blow [Edit]

Name: Hookers 'n Blow
Rating: 3.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in 4X4

L › R R › L A › Z

	"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
	Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Monster Truck T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tranny Trouble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown 21 - aka 'every bit of awkward' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed 5.10 RF flake just R of knobby tires T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft
FA:	???
Page Views:	2,188 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2008
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.

Description [Edit]

Superb thin-hands and hands climbing in a right-facing corner on great rock. A pod up high, shortly before the anchor is the greatest difficulty for most. Great face features throughout this climb offer ample rests and a break for the feet.

[editors note: there were 2 entries for the same route. i kept the older entry and have included the second entry with these notes.]

per Devin Fin 'mostly hands lil wide at the top but not hard, 10a'

Location [Edit]

Just left of Variety Pack. Scramble onto a ledge to reach this right facing corner.

[per Devin Fin - 'around the right side up on a ledge. cool hang']

Protection [Edit]

Many red to gold Camalots with a green and a #4.

[per Devin Fin - 'red camalots to #4s'

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plaqe

mellow lead

7 Comments

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO

Michael Schneiter Glenwood Springs, CO

I may have double listed this route. There's an Unnamed 5.10 already included here but it doesn't say anything about being in a corner, which would seem to be some obvious beta for finding the route. Perhaps someone can clear up the confusion and can feel free to remove this route if it is indeed double listed.

The Bloom guide lists this route as 5.11- but it's probably more like 5.10+, in my opinion. Nov 3, 2008