Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,285 total · 19/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Superb thin-hands and hands climbing in a right-facing corner on great rock. A pod up high, shortly before the anchor is the greatest difficulty for most. Great face features throughout this climb offer ample rests and a break for the feet.

[editors note: there were 2 entries for the same route. i kept the older entry and have included the second entry with these notes.]

per Devin Fin 'mostly hands lil wide at the top but not hard, 10a'

Location

Just left of Variety Pack. Scramble onto a ledge to reach this right facing corner.

[per Devin Fin - 'around the right side up on a ledge. cool hang']

Protection

Many red to gold Camalots with a green and a #4.

[per Devin Fin - 'red camalots to #4s'

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11-
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11-
I may have double listed this route. There's an Unnamed 5.10 already included here but it doesn't say anything about being in a corner, which would seem to be some obvious beta for finding the route. Perhaps someone can clear up the confusion and can feel free to remove this route if it is indeed double listed.

The Bloom guide lists this route as 5.11- but it's probably more like 5.10+, in my opinion. Nov 3, 2008
Ed L
Slowida
Ed L   Slowida
This route is a splitter, just to the left of Variety Pack. Great warm up. Nov 29, 2008
Alex Garhart
  5.10d
Alex Garhart  
  5.10d
There is a placard at the base that reads "Hookers and Blow 10+". Great climb. Oct 14, 2009
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
  5.10+
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.10+
yes this is a splitter not a corner Jan 28, 2010
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Yes, I also saw the plaque at the base - it's called Hookers and Blow. Jun 2, 2010
A0hero
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
I can confirm that this was unnamed 5.11- in Bloom's old book... Definitely harder than 10- Apr 7, 2013
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
5.10
2.5 friends work nice (3-4) a big piece and 1-2 ea. #2 & #3 camalot Mar 19, 2017