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Routes in 4X4

"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
4 x 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
4x20 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Carbondale Short Bus T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Collision Course T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Country T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankcase T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dashboard Jesus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Destination Paris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hookers 'n Blow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hydraulic Pump T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knobby Tires T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lift Kit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Linkage T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Long Bandito route - hands into wide corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Marshmallow Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minute Lube T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monster Truck T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Salt-Lake Special T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take 10 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tranny Trouble T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown OW T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Variety Pack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
scout T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,385 total, 57/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.

The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. Possible second pitch continues on, although I am not sure if it has been done or not. Looks like it goes.

I don't know what the guidebooks are calling the grade of this route these days. Difficulty when pulling the roof on this climb is subject to hand size (as always at Indian Creek), so you could find this to be 10+ or solid 11.

Protection

Approximate guess:
2 - #2 Camalots
1 - #3 Friend
4 - #3 Camalots
2 - #3.5 Camalots
Last Sunday, 5/14/2017, we placed #4 cam in the roof, the rope walked it up and got it wedged in there pretty bad. Didn't have a nut tool on hand and couldn't get out. If you happen to be climbing this great route and get it out I would greatly appreciate its return. May 20, 2017
Brilliant line! Fun chugging to the roof with perfect hands up to cups (#2 camalots up to tipped-out #3s). The roof is on tight #4s and, despite what the guidebook says, this route was easier for those in our group with smaller hands. I couldn't get a single fist in, and pulling the lip on rattly cups put me in quite a state. Hard to imagine that someone could call this 5.10 with a straight face. Mar 23, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a/b
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a/b
Sweet pitch!

I never got a single fist jam. Hands to cups to big cups, but no fist. Also I wouldn't bring a 3.5 Camalot unless you don't have enough 3s. Be carefull not to get the 3.5 stuck.

I thought it was harder than 10+ but could see 10+ if one had much bigger hands Nov 10, 2012
JMo
Tucson, AZ
5.11
JMo   Tucson, AZ
5.11
This 10d rating for this route on mp has gotta go. Absurd. Of course it's a stellar route. But what egomaniac feels the need to call this 10? Aug 19, 2012
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
  5.11a/b
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
  5.11a/b
Name a 10 at the creek that goes full horizontal for a body length and requires cutting your feet at a lip- regardless of the jam size. Name an 11- out there that feels harder. I had perfect fists out the roof- but ratchety cups above. Hard for every hand size- and also a great great route. Oct 12, 2010
Alex Garhart
  5.11-
Alex Garhart  
  5.11-
No matter the grade this route is awesome. And no matter your hand size there is more than one way to skin this cat. Oct 20, 2009
Timmamok Murphy
Durango, CO
  5.10d
Timmamok Murphy   Durango, CO
  5.10d
This route is 11- May 8, 2009
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I'd agree this route is a sandbag at 10+. I have big hands and couldn't get but one fist jam under the roof, and then had to use very marginal forearm jams out the roof as it was just too small to take my fists. Felt desperate. Some lieback with better luck. 3.5 camalots essential for roof. Nov 4, 2008
Grant Bryans
buena vista colorado
Grant Bryans   buena vista colorado
for me it was rattly cups through a roof. fun, yet the 10 (as with most routes at the creek are) is realitive to your hand size, if the jams were more secure for me it would have for sure gone 10. May 11, 2007
Sandbag alert! Sandbag alert! This is rattly fists through the roof... burly as hell unless you have big mits. When I was there several years ago, the plague at the base called it 5.11. I think the Marco I.C. guide has a grade disparity between the topo and description rating. Jun 21, 2004