Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,274 total · 57/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.

The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. Possible second pitch continues on, although I am not sure if it has been done or not. Looks like it goes.

I don't know what the guidebooks are calling the grade of this route these days. Difficulty when pulling the roof on this climb is subject to hand size (as always at Indian Creek), so you could find this to be 10+ or solid 11.


Approximate guess:
2 - #2 Camalots
1 - #3 Friend
4 - #3 Camalots
2 - #3.5 Camalots
Sandbag alert! Sandbag alert! This is rattly fists through the roof... burly as hell unless you have big mits. When I was there several years ago, the plague at the base called it 5.11. I think the Marco I.C. guide has a grade disparity between the topo and description rating. Jun 21, 2004
Grant Bryans
buena vista colorado
Grant Bryans   buena vista colorado
for me it was rattly cups through a roof. fun, yet the 10 (as with most routes at the creek are) is realitive to your hand size, if the jams were more secure for me it would have for sure gone 10. May 11, 2007
bheller   SL UT
I'd agree this route is a sandbag at 10+. I have big hands and couldn't get but one fist jam under the roof, and then had to use very marginal forearm jams out the roof as it was just too small to take my fists. Felt desperate. Some lieback with better luck. 3.5 camalots essential for roof. Nov 4, 2008
Timmamok *
Timmamok *   none
This route is 11- May 8, 2009
Alex Garhart
Alex Garhart  
No matter the grade this route is awesome. And no matter your hand size there is more than one way to skin this cat. Oct 20, 2009
Oakland, Ca
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
Name a 10 at the creek that goes full horizontal for a body length and requires cutting your feet at a lip- regardless of the jam size. Name an 11- out there that feels harder. I had perfect fists out the roof- but ratchety cups above. Hard for every hand size- and also a great great route. Oct 12, 2010
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
This 10d rating for this route on mp has gotta go. Absurd. Of course it's a stellar route. But what egomaniac feels the need to call this 10? Aug 19, 2012
Jeff Scheuerell
Jeff Scheuerell  
Sweet pitch!

I never got a single fist jam. Hands to cups to big cups, but no fist. Also I wouldn't bring a 3.5 Camalot unless you don't have enough 3s. Be carefull not to get the 3.5 stuck.

I thought it was harder than 10+ but could see 10+ if one had much bigger hands Nov 10, 2012
Brilliant line! Fun chugging to the roof with perfect hands up to cups (#2 camalots up to tipped-out #3s). The roof is on tight #4s and, despite what the guidebook says, this route was easier for those in our group with smaller hands. I couldn't get a single fist in, and pulling the lip on rattly cups put me in quite a state. Hard to imagine that someone could call this 5.10 with a straight face. Mar 23, 2015
Last Sunday, 5/14/2017, we placed #4 cam in the roof, the rope walked it up and got it wedged in there pretty bad. Didn't have a nut tool on hand and couldn't get out. If you happen to be climbing this great route and get it out I would greatly appreciate its return. May 20, 2017
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
Don't stop as soon as you get to the splitter.... Continue up the splitter fist crack for another 40' to the ledge and lower off a fesh 2ba with a 70m. I placed a 3.5 and a 4 and felt comfy with it. Dec 21, 2018