Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 3,461 total · 28/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the first route right of 4x4. The left of the duo of twin splitters up offsets (the right being Crankcase).

The crux is the first changing corners and is pretty burly, above this it's just a matter of hanging on...

Protection

Lots of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots. A 0.4 is nice for the move to the chains.

Photos

Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.12c
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.12c
One of the best. The difficulty really does depend on how much gear you place. The anchors are pretty mank. I'll replace them the next time I'm there, but if anyone beats me to it, let me know. Nov 16, 2008
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
The plaque said 11+ when I saw it...seems not far off. Apr 13, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12+
Was just on this route a couple days ago going for the redpoint and I screwed myself by not taking the right amount of gear. So I figured I'd list the gear beta for anyone considering giving this route a go.

All gear is in Camalots

(2).4, (9).5 & (6).75

This should sew it up. Apr 26, 2012
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Steve our gear is a lil different...
I placed in order

3- .5s,
2 red Metolious,
2-.75s,
1-.5,
and a grey alien

It really does help to have your gear dialed on this thing..Stoping is kinda hard. But moving is kinda easy Nov 19, 2012