Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Craig Keaty 1995
Page Views: 1,136 total · 11/month
Shared By: RyanJames on Sep 29, 2010 with updates from Craig Keaty
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Crux it out on some THIN holds!

Location

Right of Loc Tite

Protection

5 bolts to shared anchor with Loc-Tite.

Photos

Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
Got totally shut down on this thing today above bolt 2. May have to try and work the moves out on TR ... thin to win. Dec 8, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12c
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12c
Beta Alert: Stick clip the 1st bolt. Cruise up to the 2nd on pockets and crimps, veer right after clipping the 2nd, following face climbing style hands and slab foot movement, to clip the 3rd bolt out-stretched left from a 1/3 pad edge. Continue to the 4th and 5th bolt on easier terrain. Jan 20, 2017
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12c
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12c
5 bolts to two-bolt anchor. Shares anchor with Loc-tite. Jan 20, 2017
Will Wright
Mesa, AZ
  5.12-
Will Wright   Mesa, AZ
  5.12-
After doing a number of 5.12's at the pond, I'm not sure I can believe that the rightward traverse after the 2nd bolt is the intended 5.12c route. It felt like the softest 12 I have been on in a long time.

However, the more direct route seemed...improbable at best, with a desperate slabby lunge to the same crimp that you clip off of using the aforementioned beta. IMO, the traverse beta is much easier, albeit higher quality. Mar 1, 2017
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
 
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Phoenix, AZ
 
The Direct variation checks in closer to 12+ and has some moves that don’t seem like they should work yet somehow do. You clip third bolt from a left mono/two finger pocket and do some weird 2d stemming on a left pocket and a right divot. Switching hands on the oval shaped pocket to bump out right to a good crimp. You still trend up and right. It definitely seems improbable at first Jan 12, 2018
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12c
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12c
I agree Hugo, the direct version is definitely .12c or c/d. It's hard to distinguish how the route goes at first and not follow too far away from the bolt line, which I always try to adhere to, plus or minus 3 feet right or left. Essentially it is subjective on where that becomes blurred and why I think some think the line is less than .12+ or stiff. It is definitely harder than Blisters in the Sun and the other slabs, despite the length. What makes the route seem less like a slab climb in my opinion is that the hands climb like face moves on vertical while the foot moves are slab feeling....kinda unique. Jan 13, 2018