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Routes in The Pond

Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Adventure Quest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arete Horizon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beer and Dead Animals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Weld Show, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blisters in the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Casting Couch, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casting Shadows S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Christmas Chocolate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chutes and Ladders S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Close Call S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clueless S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowboy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowgirl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crosses Are Free, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Date Rape S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Row S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Desert Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Endomorph Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Boy Goes to the Pond S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Follow Your Heart S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Save The Ta Tas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Short Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot House S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Hot Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
In Seam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Is Nothing Sacred S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Can't Get Any S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Leave Your Money On the Dresser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liquid Sunshine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Loc-Tite S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Main Squeeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mistaken Identity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mona Lisa S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next To Nothing S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ninja School S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noah's Ark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nothing Becomes Her S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nothing But Air S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Nothing Lasts Forever S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nothing Shocking S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nothing To It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nothing's There S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nothings Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nothings Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out on Parole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Pow-Wow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Pulling Pansies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Puzzle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Warmer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pompasfuc S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pony Express S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Princess Jordini and Her Magic Flute S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Return From the Great Mormon Experience S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Lobster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocky Horror Picture Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sappy Love Song S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soft Parade, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Hog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Takin it to the Street S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Share S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warden, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weak Sister S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Wild West S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winds of Change S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Youth is Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Fred AmRhein (2002)
Page Views: 1,933 total, 16/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Dec 16, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Nice route. The crux is just above the first horizontal. I liked the variation in the moves on this climb.

Location

Located just right of Casting Shadows, the route follows the obvious vertical seam in the face (hangers are located climbers left of the seam). The wall is just after the main (tallest)wall with the classic climb "The soft Parade".

Protection

Eight bolts with shuts.

Photos

Jimbo  
Fred I concur with your reasoning here. Bolts should be closer when ground fall potential exists. We do the same thing all the time.
Sport climbing by definition is suppose to be safe. If someone hits the ground while clipping the second or third bolt it's not a sign of the FA's boldness it's a sign he or she doesn't know how to create a safe sport route.
I've done all the moves on top rope in order to clean and determine line and bolt placement. Knowing where that hidden side pull or pocket is can make a early clip seem casual to me, so I always try to put my self in the shoes of someone who is on-sighting the route. They may not find the hold. If they don't and fall are they going to hit the deck?
We do routes several grades below our ability all the time. So I also always try to keep in mind what the moves would and clips would be like for someone climbing at their limit.
As far as too many bolts, it's a sport route on a crag littered with bolts. If Roman thinks there are too many bolts he can skip some clips. If you placed 10 bolts instead of 12 on a route would that really effect the look and feel of the climb that much??
Apr 6, 2012
Roman,

Sorry to hear of your dismay at the overabundance of bolts on the route. As the FA on this one and a few others nearby, I'll explain.

If you are referring to the bolts near the crack at the beginning; I bolted the crack for the simple reason that The Pond is a sport climbing area and I just followed the ethic. There's probably no clear cut rationale here that will make die-hard gearheads happy, but it is a sport area and I respect that.

I debated whether to bolt the crack here (and on Mona Lisa too) but decided that the bolts would probably allow for more people to enjoy the terrain given the lack of trad gear laden visitors. I could have made a statement by using my stoppers and hexes in the crack, my tri-cams in the various pockets, and cams in the horizontals, but why? It's a sport area and the tradition there is to primarily pack in a rope, various shoes, plenty of draws, and lots of sunscreen.

If the bolts are simply too close together down low I guess it's just a habit. I tend to place bolts closer together near the ground and try to spread them out further up. (Witness the top nearby up high on The Big Weld Show where some people think it's actually run out)

I suppose bolting is a bit of an art, not a science. I guess I've come to feel that most people want to go home after sport climbing to their families and friends and I'd rather try to err on the side of safety when putting routes up in such an area. I may not always succeed but I try, like I said, it's somewhat of an art not necessarily a science.

Just my personal view.

Fred Apr 6, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
Hey Adam, if that was you on Sunday you almost had it. Glad to see you kept at it....'til failure. Next time you'll know what to expect. Good luck! Feb 5, 2012
Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
 
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
 
tried this route having no idea what the rating was because it was not listed in my book. This resulted in my first fall outdoors and was it ever fun and exciting. later found out it was a 10.c now i know why i fell. great route fun climbing. i will be back to complete this route. Jan 30, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Great line! Suffers a bit from unnecessary bolts, but a fun and different climb for the area. Jan 31, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
A thoughtful route that helps prep for "Soft Parade." Welcome relief from the overhanging pocket pulling! Mar 11, 2010
kirra  
FA: October 2002, Fred AmRhein May 23, 2008