Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Marty Karabin
Page Views: 3,017 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mike on Jan 27, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A fun route with a couple of cruxy parts. Follow 10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Location

On the right side of the big face, just left of Pocket Puzzle.

Protection

well-bolted.

Photos

brucy
 
brucy  
 
Well bolted- not! Or at least unless you put add-a-bolts (long slings) on bolts 3,9, and 10. Two cruxes on route (bolts 3 and 8). Apr 19, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Title of a great old "the Doors" album... Nov 29, 2010
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11a
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11a
My foldout guide blew away (probably blew all the way back to Superior) right when we got there and we thought we were getting on In Seam - 10c. Well, Kyle decided to just go for it, but unfortunately he pulled his shoulder out of socket just after the first bolt. Ouch! He was able to work it back in, but couldn't do anymore climbing that day.

So I jumped on it to get his gear back and give it a go.
Definitely glad I went for it because it's probably my favorite route at the Pond to date.

It doesn't look 11b from the bottom, but it felt damn close to it when on it. Many Various techniques used throughout, including a few tips jams in the seams, which were fun. There's a super amazing rest right before the last crux (you'll know what I mean when you find it), then fire through it to the top.

Thanks Burt for the info, all of us were debating where the name might have come from. Nov 29, 2010
Matt West
Vail, CO
 
Matt West   Vail, CO
 
Area classic for sure. Dec 1, 2010
Aaron Collins
Spring, TX
 
Aaron Collins   Spring, TX
 
Marty did a damn fine J O B on this one. Three cruxes with heart settling climbing in between. Loved it! Jan 18, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a
This climb isn't as good as it thinks it is. Mar 14, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11b
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.11b
I don't see any issue with how this was bolted. It seemed just fine while placing quickdraws on lead which is generally my litmus test.

Fun route, but the no-hands rests take a bit away from it. Nov 26, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11b
There is no problem with the bolting on this route. Great placements through the various cruxes, I've led it when strong...I've led it when weak and the bolt placements have never been an issue. The route is engaging, with various cruxes and good rests. Oh and long too. Always a favorite, 4 star for the area or anywhere. Nov 27, 2011
Kyle Hartung
  5.11b
Kyle Hartung  
  5.11b
I'll second that bolting is well done on this route. Have climbed it a few times and find the crux for me is the mild bulge near the top. This is a killer route. May 10, 2016
Daniel James
2018/19: Bristol, England
 
Daniel James   2018/19: Bristol, England
 
A ton of fun! As a warning, as of March 2017 there is a loose, football-sized rock in the big crack you can throw yourself in near the anchors, so just watch out for that and don't try to grab it. May 24, 2017