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Routes in The Pond

Adamantasaurus Flacciphallicus PhD S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Adventure Quest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arete Horizon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beer and Dead Animals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Weld Show, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blisters in the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Casting Couch, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casting Shadows S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Christmas Chocolate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chutes and Ladders S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Close Call S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clueless S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowboy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowgirl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crosses Are Free, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Date Rape S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Death Row S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Desert Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerald, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Endomorph Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Boy Goes to the Pond S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Follow Your Heart S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Save The Ta Tas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Short Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot House S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Hot Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
In Seam S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Is Nothing Sacred S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Can't Get Any S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Leave Your Money On the Dresser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Liquid Sunshine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Loc-Tite S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Main Squeeze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mistaken Identity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mona Lisa S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Natural Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next To Nothing S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ninja School S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noah's Ark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nothing Becomes Her S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nothing But Air S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Nothing Lasts Forever S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nothing Shocking S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nothing To It S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nothing's There S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nothings Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nothings Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out on Parole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Party S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Pow-Wow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Pulling Pansies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Puzzle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocket Warmer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pompasfuc S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pony Express S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Princess Jordini and Her Magic Flute S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Return From the Great Mormon Experience S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Lobster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocky Horror Picture Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sappy Love Song S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soft Parade, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Hog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Takin it to the Street S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Share S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warden, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weak Sister S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Wild West S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winds of Change S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Youth is Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Fred AmRhein*
Page Views: 1,021 total, 10/month
Shared By: Fred AmRhein on Nov 17, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Starts out on a nice face. Gets crispy and has an interesting finish. (* FA info: This line on the Bartuni face was originally bolted by Greg Varela and Chad Cooper. I reconfigured it to its current form. FA)

Location

Just to the right of Mona Lisa. (Time Share is misidentified in the 9-2008 Karabin guide. It should be #31 and Blisters in the Sun should be #32)

Protection

Bolts (7 or 8?)

Photos

Will Wright
Phoenix
  5.12
Will Wright   Phoenix
  5.12
In 2025 it will be a good route. Jan 18, 2017
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.12a/b
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.12a/b
I agree with Hugo- felt more like a technical Phoenix granite route than a Queen Creek pocket fest, which was a nice change of pace for the area.

Really fun movement, but unfortunately pretty poor rock in the upper section. Aside from the little flakes and edges coming off, the big thank-god jug right after the crux sounds really hollow. It's a pretty good size, so I'd be weary yarding on it. Jan 12, 2016
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12-
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12-
I jumped on this route yesterday and it was a blast, unfortunately I didn't get it clean. There is some looseness but to be quite honest it added some fun character to the route. Definite delicate face climbing reminiscent of some of the phx granite climbs nearby, yet with a mix of good gymnastic prowess involved as well. If you haven't tried it, I would definitely recommend it, have fun and be safe! Feb 8, 2013
Thanks for the info Chad; I guess my research on it via Greg wasn't quite accurate. Apologies for the errors. by the way, if you get a chance, add Return from the Ultimate Mormon Experience down at the lower pond to the list; awesome route and one of yours too as I recall?

Fred Nov 24, 2012
C.C.  
Just an update on this route. It was first bolted and abandoned by Greg Varela and Todd Molitoris. Not me Chad Cooper.

Fred, that is awesome that you finished this line. As for the pin head that is claiming Fred or Greg manufactured holds. You have probably never meet Greg or Fred. Greg and I climbed,traveled and bolted routes for MANY years. We DON'T manufacture. Example, Road area to the right of Scorpion, I bolted it, it was to hard and left it. If we manufactured holds it would have been climbed by now and have several holes drilled in it!!

I have met Fred on several occasions back in the day and climbed many of his routes....he doesn't manufacture.

I bet you think, "El gato grande de amour" is drilled to??

Before spewing yourself all over everyone. Why don't you get a grip and try to talk to the route creator. May 28, 2012
I was just adding some background and wanted to make sure that if somebody read the drilling/comfortizing assertions by Peter that my view and actions were at least provided for balance.

Also, the name "Time Share" seemed appropriate because the line that I chose to configure shared some of Greg and Chad's line to some extent. The name was meant as a respectful way to address this. The actual name came up because of a hand/foot match move on the "bear" scar that I used about 1/3 of the way up.

No worries, no stress, just trying to provide some background given the commentary.

Fred Apr 14, 2012
Other than accusing the FA team of drilling pockets I think it is a more colorful way to make a comment. I would definitely pull the drilled pocket part. Also good to remember we are on real rock here not plastic. They cannot all be great Fred. Keep at it. Apr 7, 2012
Jimbo  
Hey Peter, how many new routes have you done? Guys like Fred and I are more than happy for you to start putting up new routes so you can show us how it should be done.

You better make sure your new route is perfect in every way otherwise someone might tear you a new ass because he or she didn't like it.

Apr 6, 2012
Peter,

My friend, as the FA on this route, at least after reconfiguring it from what Chad and Greg had done years previous to my efforts, I have to correct some of your commentary.

For my part and those who aided me in putting this up over the days and weeks we worked on it, I cleaned off buckets of loose rock, creaky flakes, and short-timer pockets. I believe that Greg and Chad had done about as much if not more cleaning themselves. The first portion of the route is indeed good solid stuff and as far as I know, all natural.

Unfortunately, God, Nature, Yahweh or whatever force you'd like to conjure, did not provide such solid stuff up higher. It is what it is, welcome to the tough world of climbing on volcanic tuff, you think it's solid and yet the traffic of a few climbers loosens what's left and away it goes. (By the way, I could have glued or otherwise been creative with things like was done by others in the area, but that's not my way; if you knew me or had checked in with me you'd know this)

There was no comfortizing or manufacturing done on any pockets, edges, etc., by me, nor by Greg or Chad from what I know. If anything, I've had more people accuse me of a lack of cleaning off the poor pieces and of leaving too many sharp edges and/or pockets. My guess is that you are mistaking the soft, underlying pumice in the mid-section for comforting, but that's just my guess. Years of traffic in those areas that are softer could also create a more comfortable feel to things, again, just a guess at your experience and view.

Certainly not the best route, but you might want to reconsider your characterizations until you have the facts; or at least have heard from those who have taken the time to work on putting up a route or two in this area and are better informed.

Thanks,

Fred Apr 5, 2012
Chris Bastek
  5.12a/b
Chris Bastek  
  5.12a/b
Sorry to hear you had such a horrible experience on this route Peter. I've done it a half dozen times or so it didn't find it that chossy. I would agree that pulling hard on this route or it's neighbor Blisters in the Sun is not highly recommended. Definitely requires delicate face climbing for sure. Dec 19, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12-
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12-
I should add that if you're really going to be pulling hard on this route the belayer should wear a helmet. Dec 14, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12-
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12-
Do you like clipping off of holds that flex visibly and crumble under your feet?
Do you enjoy the feeling of knocking on a flake with your hand and feeling it vibrate in your toes?
Do you enjoy drilled-out and comfortized pockets in the only decent rock on an entire route?

Well if so, is this ever the route for you! This is the chossiest rock I have experienced yet at this area. The first 30 feet are actually quite fun, but as soon as the rock changes from red to white it rapidly degrades into a loose, flakey, and decidedly un-fun experience.

What a piece of crap. Dec 11, 2011