Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: 4/3/2012, Fred AmRhein and Christopher Bastek
Page Views: 1,462 total · 18/month
Shared By: Fred AmRhein on Apr 4, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Bouldery start onto a technical face and up various interesting bulge-like features. Pull over last bulge on dark, solid rock. A bit crispy in spots due to newness. Belaying off of the large boulder at the bottom is possible once the leader is well off the ground. It can be started from the direct bottom via the jug or by traversing in from around the corner to the left; same rating either way.

Location

Line of bolts on the far west (left when looking at the wall) end of the huge Bartuni Wall, left of Mona Lisa. The Big Weld Show is around the corner to the left.

Protection

11 bolts and chains at the top. CAUTION: This route is long, 95' or so, use at least a 60 meter rope! STICK CLIPPING the first bolt is recommended due to the fall and tumble potential at that point along the cliff line.

Photos

Molieri
Arvada, CO
Molieri   Arvada, CO
Tried this route today, and broke of a large chunk of rock just below the first bolt(possibly the jug mentioned in the description?). I bailed mid-way up, because most of the route was pretty crumbly. Pieces of the rock were breaking off in my hands, and it looked like some other holds had broken off previously. From what I did, it felt a lot harder than .11a in its current state. Dec 30, 2012
Fred AmRhein
  5.11a
Fred AmRhein  
  5.11a
Bummer about the large jug.

I'd definitely re-emphasize the use of a stick clip for the first moves, even if the jug is (partly?) still there.

It's admittedly still crumbly; I was on it a few weeks ago and had pocket edges continuing to give a bit here and there.

Like neighboring routes on Bartuni AF PhD has its challenges also. Next time I'm on it I'll work it over again and try to clean it up some more. It's definitely a stiff climb at 11a and ratings are by consensus so only time will tell where it will settle in.

Fred Jan 9, 2013
MJBARKER Barker
Gilbert, Arizona
  5.11b/c
MJBARKER Barker   Gilbert, Arizona
  5.11b/c
A lot of the holds you have described are not there. I broke off a foot on the start move. Second bolt is the first crux and the final bulge before the anchor is the second crux. Dec 29, 2015
Kyle Hartung
  5.11b/c
Kyle Hartung  
  5.11b/c
I led this a few days ago. I really enjoyed the route, very thin moves through the first half, but doable, then one last push to the top. I broke a number of holds on the way up, including sending down a few 12" flakes on one of the ledges. The start is quite thin and thought provoking, I thought more difficult than any moves on nearby Soft Parade. I would echo 11b/c. When this cleans up it will be a killer route - it already is. Dec 31, 2015