Type: Sport
FA: Craig Keaty
Page Views: 8,257 total · 54/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Jun 4, 2006 with updates from Craig Streit
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


210 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Excellent climb up steep pocketed face. Great holds, fun moves, sustained with one good rest.

Location

West-facing wall at right end of Upper Pond West. Just around corner from monster overhang.

Protection

Bolts & two bolt anchor with mussy hooks.
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a/b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a/b
This is a terrific, fun and pumpy climb! Great pockets and good length. Nov 26, 2008
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
 
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
 
Great climb, very sustained and no real rest spots. I'd guess it was about 75 feet to the anchors. The anchors are not shuts though, just chain.

Getting the first bolt really sets the tone for the route but once you get past that it makes the rest seem much more doable.

Enjoy

Also try the route just to the right of this "Arete Horizon" it is pretty equal in difficulty and equal in the fun category as well. Mar 5, 2009
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
 
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
 
Awesome climb! There are big holds all the way up but it is steep and has a bulge at the top. A lot of the lower grade climbs are much thinner than this one, only it requires endurance. May 18, 2009
BenClimbing
  5.9+
BenClimbing  
  5.9+
I suppose if QC has a route that deserves the "classic" classification, this is it. Dec 21, 2010
brucy
5.10c
brucy  
5.10c
We thougth this route to be two (2) letter grades harder then the route to the right even tho they're rated the same. Still in all,
it's one of our favorite warm ups and have been doing it for years. Feb 28, 2011
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I agree, it has to be harder than 10a! May 18, 2012
RazRez  
GPS coordinates (WGS84 hddd.ddddd°)

Parking for the pond:
N33.30839 W111.07076

Trailhead:
N33.30973 W111.06783

Pocket puzzle:
N33.31010 W111.06888 Feb 27, 2013
Stephane Fitch 1
  5.10a
Stephane Fitch 1  
  5.10a
The Queen Creek Canyon classic 5.10. Do yourself a favor and get a quickdraw in and protect the first move, which is quite overhung and burly. Once you're over your feet and past that first move, things settle down. I think a 5.9 climber can enjoy this climb enormously on top-rope if he/she stays relaxed and hunts for the jugs. They are there. Super fun. Nov 3, 2015
This is a FANTASTIC climb. Slightly overhung into a big sit rest, followed by a bit more pumpy climbing to an slabby finish. It has a ton of solid clean holds throughout and feet are everywhere. If you don't find something on your first move, you move 3-inches to the left or right and hit hold that's a huge a fist full of rock. Well protected and all clipping stances were solid. If you visit the pond, make sure this is on your tick list.

  • *NOTE: We climbed on Dec. 20, 2017 and the 1st bolt was a spinner. The bolt seemed still solid in the rock, but the hanger spins. Might need to be tightened down or replaced sometime in the future.
Dec 22, 2017
Craig Streit
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Craig Streit   Scottsdale, AZ
 
The spinning first bolt has been replaced, the 5th ish spinning bolt has been tightened, and mussy hooks were added to the anchors (12/19/18) Dec 20, 2018