The Overlooked Chimney
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | FA unknown. Certainly climbed in the past. First recorded ascent 12/17/22. |
Page Views: | 269 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Dennis Williams on Dec 17, 2022 |
Admins: | Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
No doubt climbed long ago by the redoubtable early route developers at The Pond, it is an orphan trad chimney surrounded by well known and excellent sport routes at an almost all sport crag. If you climb at The Pond you have probably walked past it a dozen times.
Located immediately to the left of and shares the anchor with Casting Couch. It can be top roped from CC with a bit of extension to ease rope drag. It could use it's own anchor. Something for the future.
Chimney up (feet on one wall, back against the other) to the tree. Stem wide past it and stay left to the top. Pro is in the back of the chimney. A really nice combination of classic chimney moves with decent pro.
Give your finger tips a break from pockets and crimps and try this one out. You could bail over to the bolt line on CC at almost any point, but don't. Stay left above the tree for full value. This route would make an excellent introduction to chimney climbing for any new climber that fancies moving up to trad multi-pitch.
As with any chimney, it is a conduit for water run-off. It collects dirt, rocks, branches, and all sorts of other debris. Not a bad thing, just typical of chimneys and different from the immaculate sport routes all around it.
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