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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Phillip Fisher '89
Page Views: 981 total · 10/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on Apr 3, 2010
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

The exposure and rather wild moves make up for the lack of length. It feels like you are hanging above 1000 feet of air. Start left on the rightward rising horizontal. Boulder (or campus) half a dozen moves right to a huge jug below the first bolt. Fire past the second bolt and top out.

Location

Right of Stannard's Crack on the ledge below the second overhang.

Protection

two bolts; no anchor; careful belay is advised

Photos

James Dowdy
  5.12a/b
James Dowdy  
  5.12a/b
V4+ boulder problem that begins high enough on the rock face that a rope is required - crazy, beautiful exposure!

Cool moves, although the crux requires a *wide* wingspan...you're likely to be shut down if you're shorter than approx 5' 8".

Probably only V1 or so after the first dozen feet.

Have fun!

Jim Mar 22, 2016