Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Fortner 1977
Page Views: 1,678 total · 14/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Jun 7, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Climb runout ground to the first bolt in the water streak, then further through blank, balancy terrain and more gear to easy ground. Traverse right to the Afternoon Delight anchors. (Optional pitch goes up and exits right under the second overhang.)

Location

The obvious, greasy water streak 20' left of the flake.

Protection

bolt, TCUs, tricams, stoppers, a #1 C4 for a directional at the top.

Photos

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JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
This route is pretty serious. If you don't clip the chicken bolt on Variations, you would definitely die/ be maimed if you fell at the cruxy move before the bolt. Sep 5, 2011
Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
JW is right. Following the original route without the Variations bolt offers 5.7R/X to the first bolt, then a 5.9 crux, then some gear out left, followed by another long runout to easier ground. Dec 4, 2011
James Dowdy
  5.9+ PG13
James Dowdy  
  5.9+ PG13
A nice climb...yeah, it's kinda sketchy getting to the first bolt, but an R/X rating seems a bit much.

Have fun!

Jim Mar 23, 2016