Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Paul Barnes, Jody Jacobs
Page Views: 1,890 total · 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 31, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Mantle a few times to a stance below a bolt. Clip this and do a thin move or two (crux) to reach an overlap. Follow the white streak straight up to a double bolt anchor at about 30m.

Location

There are four lines between the Dihedral and the Army cable...Latest Edition is the white streak right of center with the bolt kinda high on the slab.

Protection

1 bolt, small to medium cams

Photos

Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
This is the first bolted route to the left of the cable, at the right side of the friction slab. It's quite worthwhile if you're in the area. The friction slab is the clean slab between the Dihedral route and the Army cable. Jun 3, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8
I really enjoyed this route, one of the most interesting leads I've done at Yonah so far. The runout to the bolt (maybe 30') was a mental challenge but not real hard climbing. I think you might be able to get a 000 C3 in one of those seams before the bolt, but I didn't have mine with me, so I just ran it out. The bolt is well placed to protect the crux, which was the only real 5.8 moves on the route for me. The rest of the route is cool climbing and pretty well protected.

If someone's already on the bolted anchors for the Three Cam Party route to the left, there's good placements at the top for a solid gear anchor, then you can clean and rap off the Three Cam anchors when you're done.

Congratulations Paul and Jody on an excellent new route! Nov 8, 2009
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Great route. Bolt is well placed to protect the crux moves and the moves to get to it are easy. Keep your head in the game for the climbing above the bulge, some of the smears felt pretty insecure in the summer heat. Sep 25, 2016
Luke R 84
Athens, GA
  5.8
Luke R 84   Athens, GA
  5.8
We climbed today and added a second pitch which covered 5.easy terrain to the headwall; I placed 0 gear until I reached a flake on the headwall, then essentially traversed to what the 3rd Edition Dixie Cragger's calls the top out of "Fat Bitches in the Sky. We rappelled off of rings on the clifftop. The traverse was very easy and there were a few spots for pro. Sep 25, 2016