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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Angier Wills, Jim Dowdy, ~1988
Page Views: 1,248 total, 18/month
Shared By: Stephen Felker on Apr 22, 2012 with updates
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

Climb to the flake ledge. Step up and right past two bolts to a rightward rising seam. Traverse right along the seam to the third bolt. Go straight up and then trend left to the bolted anchor.

Location

Shares the start and anchors with Afternoon Delight. The two climbs diverge off of the flake ledge, AD to the left and KF to the right.

Protection

Three bolts and maybe a couple of marginal placements...

Photos

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James Dowdy
  5.11a R
James Dowdy  
  5.11a R
Angier Wills and I put this route up in the Fall of 1989 - it is beautiful line.
We initially rated it 5.11b/c relative to the difficulties of 'Afternoon Delight.'
However: in hindsight, an 11a R rating is probably more accurate.
[In my estimation, with modern rubber, 'Afternoon Delight' is closer to 5.10d.]

NOTE: there is minimal injury potential to a competent leader - the R rating is simply an indicator of the mental commitment required to make sketchy smears *WAY* above the bolt!

FWIW: I have no idea what the 'Direct Start' refers to...Angier and I always began directly below the first bolt (positioned above the flake).

Have fun!

Jim Mar 22, 2016
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
Angier or Jim, what grade did you place on this route originally? Mar 22, 2016
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
At 11c the book is a bit generous. The difficulty is equivalent to that of Afternoon Delight. The run from the last bolt, past the crux, to the anchor is probably 30 feet.

Oct 6, 2012