Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jody Jacobs - 1992
Page Views: 2,610 total · 18/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A fine steep slab climb that demands good friction footwork.

Move up the steep face with sparse holds past three bolts. The crux is well protected by the first bolt; eases off somewhat between the second and third bolts.

Location

Down the trail right of the Army balance climbs; starts just right of Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

Light rack; a couple of small cams before the first bolt are about all you can get. Bolted anchors shared by Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.

Photos

Joey Wolfe
  5.9
Joey Wolfe  
  5.9
I climbed this today and did not see a third bolt. Did not see where one use to be either. Thin gear; the two smallest ball-nuts, 000 c3, and 00 c3 protect the start. A 0 c3 and .4 C4 will protect you to the anchors after passing two bolts.

If you are headed up to the Second Overhang you can do it easily in one pitch with a 60m rope.

Highly enjoyable lead

edit:The guide book also says 'three' bolts, must have been a typo. LSD has three bolts and starts in almost the same spot, maybe this caused a bit of confusion? Sep 13, 2008
Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
Yep, two bolts on the route, it's never had three. 1st bolt protects the mantle move, 2nd bolt you clip from the stance after doing the mantle. Going up and slightly right to the new anchor that's shared with Limited is indeed recommended unless you're passing that station and heading to the second overhang to do a route up there. Oct 27, 2008
Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
Just to clarify things, this is the next bolted route to the right of Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Its also the right most line featuring two bolts on this section of the wall. Jun 5, 2009
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Thin gear on the start of this one, you don't want to fall before clipping stance for the first bolt. I did manage to finagle a red tricam into a pocket before clipping the bolt. An excellent slab climb with a really nice crux move. Apr 29, 2017