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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,754 total, 30/month
Shared By: Justin Dansby on Oct 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Good moderate slab route with plenty of long reachy moves. The taller you are the easier it is. The crux is somewhere around 25 to 30 feet up. A little more sustained and interesting than the routes on the leftmost side of the face. Once you pull the last bulge its about 60 feet of easy ground to a belay ledge. There is an old bolt here, but I would advise not using it. The second pitch is super easy, and leads up to the second overhang area. You can rappel from rings under the overhang using two ropes or walk off right.

Location

Starts about 15' right of Limited Edition. If you are looking at the prominent flake this is the second trad route on the right past the last bolted line.

Protection

Small cams, TCU's, small nuts. The crux is well protected, but the lower section has lots of flaring eyebrows and its tougher to place pro here.

Photos

Ross Beard
Colorado Springs
 
Ross Beard   Colorado Springs
 
Climbed this route in late May 2012 there is now a double bolt anchor about ten feet below the old rusty bolt. Can be lead and rapped in one pitch offers a convenient way to rappel down from stannards crack with a 60m rope. Fun route that wanders a bit so bring some slings. Jun 26, 2012
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
Edges to Ledges is more than 15' from Limited Edition. The last couple of guidebooks to the area call it about that close too, but its more like 25 yards to the right of Limited. You walk past the rock ledge underneath Limited Edition and go all the way over to a decent sized (~8" diameter) southern yellow pine that's growing next to the cliff. At the start, you can slab up and left under the pine branches to get established on the sloping ledge where the wall gets steeper. Wander up and right/left following the path of least resistance. If you trend slighly right at about mid-pitch, you can cross an overlap and go to a belay at the the big ledge that's just right of the last overhang (like Beau did). The belay anchor there is some gear and an old bolt. You can get down from there by using what's called the flake walk off, way off to the climbers right. Another choice for the route is to trend up and left at about mid-pitch, avoiding the previously described overlap, and finishing at the bolted belay on the ledge underneath Stannards Crack. Either variation can easily be done as a single pitch with a 60 meter rope. I also think this route is more like 5.6. Dec 4, 2011
Beau Vignes
pensacola, fl
Beau Vignes   pensacola, fl
I climbed the to the huge ledge on the right side of the overhang with a 60m rope in one pitch. There were several single bolts at the top, but I did not see any to rap from safely. Maybe I missed anchors somehow. Nov 26, 2011