Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,302 total · 51/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route

51 Opinions

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Climb the dihedral, then up and over a blocky section. Most build a belay here or continue up a short distance to a bolted belay. The second pitch climbs a slab to the base of the headwall, exit left to the top or rap from anchors here.


Dihedral is located just past the colored routes on the main face and just before you get to the "cable area." Look for the obvious right-facing dihedral.


Standard gear. Look for bolted belays along the way. There are also great spots to build a belay as well.
Joey Wolfe
Joey Wolfe  
This is a great route to get on if you are new to the trad game( or not new). I recommend doing it as one pitch to the bolted belay and then rapping, instead of belaying off gear at the first large ledge. The climbing to the head wall after the bolted belay is barely 5th class. Oct 12, 2007
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Fun route for the grade. Pro is thin on the start; I got my first piece in about 20' off the deck. After that, there's plenty of great placements on up to the anchors.

I don't know how most people start this route, but the namesake dihedral didn't have any nice crack to use down low, so I started on the slab to the right, which took me up to my first placement in the dihedral. The holds get more positive from there. Sep 7, 2009
Jody Jacobs
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
Like Saxfiend said, you can climb the slab to the right of the corner until you reach the undercling for gear. Belaying at the first big ledge is just a waste of time and rope, it's less than 30 meters total from the ground to the two bolt belay and there's some nice climbing in that upper section. Dec 4, 2011
Did this over the weekend (3/10/13) as my first trad lead. Fun route, well protected. I over-placed and put a small nut about 6' off, a 0.3 TCU about 11' off and then gear placements become very obvious. Used several Camp tricams in the pockets. Mar 11, 2013
Finally got around to doing the second pitch. IMO, it's not really worth it. The first pitch is really nice, and I've always just led up to the bolted rap rings at the top of P1 and rapped from there. Oct 5, 2013
Nathan Burns
Dahlonega, GA
Nathan Burns   Dahlonega, GA
Second pitch is a hootin and hollerin good time, but here is a list of things to bring:

1) a weed-eater, lawnmower, hoe, whatever... something to get the gratuitous amount of weeds out of your way as you stem your way up (INDIANA JONES!)

2) a pink tricam, because there is a super nifty pod to put one in. You really dont need any pro for the whole pitch (the rope drag through the forest growing from the crack will slow your fall), but eh? Why not?

3) enough stuff to build a gear belay at the base of the headwall: there aint no dang bolts up there and the topout options are all boulder problems with no pro. Your easiest option is the walk off through a freaking onslaught of briers to the left. There is some nasty looking rap-tat if you are feeling suicidal.

So really I guess the conclusion is: do the first pitch, rap off. Sep 28, 2014
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
First pitch was great. The slab leading to the first placement near the horn is really easy. The second pitch can be done two different ways: go right into the gulley filled with weeds or direct up the black water streak past a vertical crack and then to the top on friction. The water streak is definitely the way to go. Jul 14, 2015
Cris Dizon
Cris Dizon   Hoboken
First pitch was great, slab climbing to a few cool moves on the diherdal. The 2nd pitch is only worth it if you want to actually "summit" yonah.

Sep 28, 2015