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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,541 total, 51/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Description

Climb the dihedral, then up and over a blocky section. Most build a belay here or continue up a short distance to a bolted belay. The second pitch climbs a slab to the base of the headwall, exit left to the top or rap from anchors here.

Location

Dihedral is located just past the colored routes on the main face and just before you get to the "cable area." Look for the obvious right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard gear. Look for bolted belays along the way. There are also great spots to build a belay as well.
Cris D.
Hoboken, NJ
 
Cris D.   Hoboken, NJ
 
First pitch was great, slab climbing to a few cool moves on the diherdal. The 2nd pitch is only worth it if you want to actually "summit" yonah.


Sep 28, 2015
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
First pitch was great. The slab leading to the first placement near the horn is really easy. The second pitch can be done two different ways: go right into the gulley filled with weeds or direct up the black water streak past a vertical crack and then to the top on friction. The water streak is definitely the way to go. Jul 14, 2015
Nathan Burns
Dahlonega, GA
 
Nathan Burns   Dahlonega, GA
 
Second pitch is a hootin and hollerin good time, but here is a list of things to bring:

1) a weed-eater, lawnmower, hoe, whatever... something to get the gratuitous amount of weeds out of your way as you stem your way up (INDIANA JONES!)

2) a pink tricam, because there is a super nifty pod to put one in. You really dont need any pro for the whole pitch (the rope drag through the forest growing from the crack will slow your fall), but eh? Why not?

3) enough stuff to build a gear belay at the base of the headwall: there aint no dang bolts up there and the topout options are all boulder problems with no pro. Your easiest option is the walk off through a freaking onslaught of briers to the left. There is some nasty looking rap-tat if you are feeling suicidal.

So really I guess the conclusion is: do the first pitch, rap off. Sep 28, 2014
Finally got around to doing the second pitch. IMO, it's not really worth it. The first pitch is really nice, and I've always just led up to the bolted rap rings at the top of P1 and rapped from there. Oct 5, 2013
Did this over the weekend (3/10/13) as my first trad lead. Fun route, well protected. I over-placed and put a small nut about 6' off, a 0.3 TCU about 11' off and then gear placements become very obvious. Used several Camp tricams in the pockets. Mar 11, 2013
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
Like Saxfiend said, you can climb the slab to the right of the corner until you reach the undercling for gear. Belaying at the first big ledge is just a waste of time and rope, it's less than 30 meters total from the ground to the two bolt belay and there's some nice climbing in that upper section. Dec 4, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.6
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.6
Fun route for the grade. Pro is thin on the start; I got my first piece in about 20' off the deck. After that, there's plenty of great placements on up to the anchors.

I don't know how most people start this route, but the namesake dihedral didn't have any nice crack to use down low, so I started on the slab to the right, which took me up to my first placement in the dihedral. The holds get more positive from there. Sep 7, 2009
Joey Wolfe
  5.5
Joey Wolfe  
  5.5
This is a great route to get on if you are new to the trad game( or not new). I recommend doing it as one pitch to the bolted belay and then rapping, instead of belaying off gear at the first large ledge. The climbing to the head wall after the bolted belay is barely 5th class. Oct 12, 2007