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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Michael Crowder, Chris Hall, 1991
Page Views: 5,185 total, 40/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

LSD offers thin balancy slab climbing past three bolts to a bolted belay. First bolt is high. There is a second optional pitch that goes up underneath the second overhang. Rap from bolts up there.

Location

LSD is located between Afternoon Delight and Special Edition on the steep slab right of the balance climb area on the right side of the main face.

Protection

3 bolts, anchors.

Photos

James Dowdy
  5.10a PG13
James Dowdy  
  5.10a PG13
A beautiful route...established by some badass OGs long before we knew what 'sport climbing' was...however: the dates posted for the first ascent are incorrect: I first climbed this route in 1983 or '84, and it was well-established at that time.

1981 perhaps???

Have fun!

Jim Mar 22, 2016
Great climb. You might even get away with calling it, "Anti-sport." Don't pound the caffeine before a morning try. Apr 15, 2014
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
5.10- PG13
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
5.10- PG13
Just to clarify, this route was not retro-bolted or turned "sport". The old bolts were replaced (July 2011) one for one per the original equipper's placements. Much in the spirit of North Carolina slab climbing, the bolts will keep you off of the ground where gear can't. Mar 15, 2013
Claymsmith  
 
This route is now completely sport aside from a few placements here and there. There is a nice pocket that I was able to fit a .75 BD cam into before first bolt. Not bomber, but would stop a slide.
Leadouts are fairly long but not really dangerous aside from scraped knees. Staying slightly right after the first bolt, there is a nice sidepull that gives a rest from the finger crunching. Mar 11, 2013
joe disciullo
Charlotte, NC
joe disciullo   Charlotte, NC
Should this be listed as Trad or Trad, Sport instead of Sport? Apr 14, 2010
Shadrock
Here and there.
Shadrock   Here and there.
Ground fall potential can be mitigated by starting to the right (Under Special Edition), placing a few pieces, and then traversing back left and up for the first bolt. Nov 30, 2009