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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 2,975 ft
GPS: 34.637, -83.715 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 31,480 total, 242/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2007 with updates
Admins: saxfiend
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Description

The Main Face has the largest number of routes and the longest climbs at Mount Yonah, including some multi-pitch. Many of the routes were established by the Army for training purposes; though fun, there's a certain sameness about these, both in the climbing and the route names. However, there are some challenging routes on this wall as well, such as Stannard's Crack and Special Edition.

This is an excellent place to set up topropes for beginning climbers, as there is a whole section of 5.easy routes where the anchors can be reached simply by climbing with the help of a cable (to which you clip your daisy chain). These are also a great training ground for new trad leaders.

Getting There

From the lower LZ, follow the trail signs for the Main Face. When you get to the cliff, you'll find cables strung to aid in making the 4th-class scramble to the cliffline trail.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 5
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 6
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Blue
Sport 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edges to Ledges
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Latest Edition
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Cam Party
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscured By Clouds
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Route
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stairway to Heaven
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Afternoon Delight
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Kid Fears
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Balance Climb 5 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Balance Climb 6 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Two Man Party Blue 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport 2 pitches
Dihedral 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Edges to Ledges 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Latest Edition 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Three Cam Party 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Special Edition 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Obscured By Clouds 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Snake Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stannard's Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Stairway to Heaven 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Afternoon Delight 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Kid Fears 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
More Classic Climbs in Main Face »

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Gunks Jesse
Shawangunk Township, NY
Gunks Jesse   Shawangunk Township, NY
Directions to Main Face from the trailhead parking lot:

Follow the green blazed trail up the mountain. You will pass the landing zone (LZ in case you don't know like I didn't). Skirt around or go through it. Green picks up but is not well marked on the other side, but it is identifiable as the well traveled trail. There is a water run off/trail on ascenders right and a second trail on ascenders left.

You will next arrive at the bathrooms. Take the obvious trail to the right that goes up. While the smaller trails appear to be climbers trails that are to the right of the obvios trail they don't lead directly to the main face but go there in a round about way.

About 150 yards up the trail from the clearing you will arrive at the base of the access to main face. This is where the army cable starts that takes up to the Two Man Climbs. Aug 16, 2017
Most of the signs for Main face are missing but, if you head past the first LZ and up to a clearing with some bathrooms take the trails that are to the right. Mostly you need to stay right on the path and you will eventually make it what I think is main face. I couldn't find many more than a couple routes with bolts but, they were fun for our group of mostly beginners. Jul 24, 2017
Chase Bowman
Baton Rouge/Durango
Chase Bowman   Baton Rouge/Durango
All of the Balance climbs have Two bolts right below the cable that spans across the top. The Bolts now have rappel rings. The rap rings were not placed by the Army. Sep 29, 2014
Chase Bowman
Baton Rouge/Durango
Chase Bowman   Baton Rouge/Durango
Be careful if you climb here in the winter. My brother and I went up to the main face in early January and there was ice everywhere. it was do dangerous to climb because of the ice fall. Jul 29, 2014

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