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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Army Mountaineering Group
Page Views: 2,160 total, 19/month
Shared By: Justin Dansby on May 12, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

This route and the Red route are my favorite "army" routes at Yonah. If you can overcome the spray paint and heavy bolting it is a decent easy route. Crux for me is getting over the bulge directly after the flake at the start. Gives a nice vista at the top. You can easily combine the two pitches. I think it is around 100-120ft from bottom to top. A double rope rap gets you down from the very top or rap twice using the cable or bolts in between.

Location

Route is located on left side of Main Face. It is the last heavily bolted route before reaching Slip and Slide and Snake Route. Obvious large flake at the start.

Protection

Bolts or standard Yonah rack, heavy on small cams, tri-cams, and nuts.

Photos

Gunks Jesse
Shawangunk Township, NY
Gunks Jesse   Shawangunk Township, NY
My route grading may be skewed but this felt way easier than a 5.6. I've climbed harder 5.3s than this in the Gunks. I know, stupid to argue over grades at this easy of a climb, but all of these were absolutely perfect for kids (8 and 10) who would freak out on Gunks 5.6s Aug 16, 2017
BrendanN
Atlanta, GA
BrendanN   Atlanta, GA
General 2-man party info:
The total height of the routes are ~130 ft top to bottom and can be easily climbed in a single pitch with a 60 m rope. Rapping from the top in one shot isn't possible with a 60 m rope. Topping out on the hiking trail is easy and safe, and a good place to take a break. Nov 6, 2016
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Thought the draws were ample protection for this guy and the rest of the 2-man. Jul 1, 2009