Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 868 total · 8/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

The name says it all. A steep friction start that would be hard even without the slimy black water streak makes the 5.5 rating incomprehensible.

Starting at a prominent water streak, grunt and balance your way up to an old and rusty but apparently solid bolt. Clip the bolt and continue on easier ground to the top.

Location

Starts about 30' right of the Two Man Party Orange route.

Protection

Mostly small cams and passive pro. Build a gear anchor.

Photos

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Jody Jacobs
NE, GA
Jody Jacobs   NE, GA
The start to this route is a 5.9 boulder problem. I don't know where the 5.6 rating comes from, except that it's listed that way in Dixie Craggers. The first bolt is old, rusty, and has two hangers on it. Dave Fortner used to call it the double headed bolt. Dec 4, 2011
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
  5.9
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
  5.9
Climbed this one yesterday. 5.5 my butt! You could tell looking from the ground that it wasn't 5.5. As I greased off the holds and onto my belayer the game was on. 5.9 sounds about right for the start and I don't know how much I would trust the bolt (it looked questionable). Once you get above the bolt you can get some solid gear in and the rest of the climb goes at 5.5. A 60m rope was long enough to take it all the way to the trail at the top in one pitch and belay off a tree. Gear was mostly small but I used up to a #1 cam. Tricams useful. The top is a bit runout but easy. This climb is 200 ft.

Rap down any of the colored routes or Dihedral. Be aware that if you rap down Dihedral that it is a FULL rope length to the anchors. There are four sets of rap anchors there so make sure to use the one that is obviously the lowest and tie knots in your rope.

Not a bad route at all! Sep 7, 2015