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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 742 total, 8/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

The name says it all. A steep friction start that would be hard even without the slimy black water streak makes the 5.5 rating incomprehensible.

Starting at a prominent water streak, grunt and balance your way up to an old and rusty but apparently solid bolt. Clip the bolt and continue on easier ground to the top.

Location

Starts about 30' right of the Two Man Party Orange route.

Protection

Mostly small cams and passive pro. Build a gear anchor.

Photos

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Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
  5.9
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
  5.9
Climbed this one yesterday. 5.5 my butt! You could tell looking from the ground that it wasn't 5.5. As I greased off the holds and onto my belayer the game was on. 5.9 sounds about right for the start and I don't know how much I would trust the bolt (it looked questionable). Once you get above the bolt you can get some solid gear in and the rest of the climb goes at 5.5. A 60m rope was long enough to take it all the way to the trail at the top in one pitch and belay off a tree. Gear was mostly small but I used up to a #1 cam. Tricams useful. The top is a bit runout but easy. This climb is 200 ft.

Rap down any of the colored routes or Dihedral. Be aware that if you rap down Dihedral that it is a FULL rope length to the anchors. There are four sets of rap anchors there so make sure to use the one that is obviously the lowest and tie knots in your rope.

Not a bad route at all! Sep 7, 2015
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
The start to this route is a 5.9 boulder problem. I don't know where the 5.6 rating comes from, except that it's listed that way in Dixie Craggers. The first bolt is old, rusty, and has two hangers on it. Dave Fortner used to call it the double headed bolt. Dec 4, 2011