Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,332 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jody Jacobs on Jun 5, 2009
Admins: Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route

11 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This route offers some nice face climbing on quality rock with adequate protection. Climb up a few slab moves to an obvious horizontal with a shallow but OK TCU placement. Go over this and up the white streak past another shallow TCU slot on your left (00) to the narrow ledge that runs across the top of the friction slab. Proceed straight up the steeper black headwall directly over a thin flake with some nice positive holds (more TCU's). Continue up easier terrain to an anchor station that's located at about the same height as the Dihedral P1 station.

The bottom of this route was likely first climbed by Dave Buck and company by esentially soloing the crux section (1970's). Nathan & Patty Wilmoth helped me re-discover this line when Nathan located a key TCU placement on rappel. Paul Barnes and I figured out the more direct upper headwall finish and I lead it on the same day we did Latest Edition.

Location Suggest change

Halfway between the Dihedral route and the Army cable, about 15 yds right of the Dihedral. It's basically in the center of the friction slab.

Protection Suggest change

Double TCU's in grey, purple & blue, small stoppers and other small/medium cams