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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,848 total, 18/month
Shared By: RadDawg on Jun 5, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

This route offers some nice face climbing on quality rock with adequate protection. Climb up a few slab moves to an obvious horizontal with a shallow but OK TCU placement. Go over this and up the white streak past another shallow TCU slot on your left (00) to the narrow ledge that runs across the top of the friction slab. Proceed straight up the steeper black headwall directly over a thin flake with some nice positive holds (more TCU's). Continue up easier terrain to an anchor station that's located at about the same height as the Dihedral P1 station.

The bottom of this route was likely first climbed by Dave Buck and company by esentially soloing the crux section (1970's). Nathan & Patty Wilmoth helped me re-discover this line when Nathan located a key TCU placement on rappel. Paul Barnes and I figured out the more direct upper headwall finish and I lead it on the same day we did Latest Edition.

Location

Halfway between the Dihedral route and the Army cable, about 15 yds right of the Dihedral. It's basically in the center of the friction slab.

Protection

Double TCU's in grey, purple & blue, small stoppers and other small/medium cams

Photos

Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Climbed this today. The bolt is still there and is a Petzl Long Life. These suckers are notoriously hard to remove without damaging the rock. Sep 25, 2016
RadDawg
NE, GA
 
RadDawg   NE, GA
 
I've corresponded with the person that installed this bolt, they didn't see that TCU placement and intend to remove the bolt the next time they are in the area. Dec 4, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
This bolt is inexcusable. I haven't led the route, but the pro is obvious even from the ground. Hopefully Jody and Michael will dispose of this very soon. Oct 20, 2009
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.8
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.8
This route is nowhere near sketchy without the bolt. Oversight or not, the culprit ought to be able to see a good gear placement nearby. Someone please chop it. Oct 20, 2009
RadDawg
NE, GA
 
RadDawg   NE, GA
 
OK, I'm sure this was just a mistake, but someone has retro bolted this route. If you look closely at that picture (cell phone camera, all I had at the time), you'll see the TCU below and left of the bolt in the white streak. Oct 20, 2009