Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: FFA, John Stannard, 1972
Page Views: 4,501 total · 33/month
Shared By: Joey Wolfe on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Climb overhanging layback crack to bookshelf ledge. Mantel onto ledge and climb blocky terrain to the top. This climb has a lot to offer despite it's size. A must do at Yonah.

Location

Located on the Second Overhang at the climbers right on top of the Main face. Obvious crack located left of .12b 2 bolt route called New Standards. Edges to Ledges, Limited Edition, or Special Edition are good choices for an approach pitch but you can scramble down from the top or find one of the many easy 5th class ways up on the far right of the Main face.

Protection

A BD #2 or similar size will protect the first few moves. The rest is easy to protect with 4 or so micro cams. I used black through yellow aliens. A few more pieces would sew it up. There is the potential for decking onto the slab due to the overhanging nature of this climb and the fact that the crux is low.

Photos

Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.9+
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
  5.9+
After climbing this route again, I have to say that there is no way this climb is 5.8...it might have been 5.8 in the '70's but it ain't 5.8 now...."warning, sandbag ahead" May 1, 2008
Joey Wolfe
  5.8
Joey Wolfe  
  5.8
I was up there again this last weekend and got on Stannard's. When i climbed it the first time i thought it was a sandbag but didn't want to add it to Mp.com with my opinion of the grade so i went with what the DCA claimed. Now there is a reprint of the DCA and it puts Stannard's at 5.9.

After climbing it again I feel confident in calling it a 5.9+, short but thuggish right off the deck and placing the gear in the crux is strenuous. Not to mention it holds a exposed position above the main face(possibly the most beautiful spot on yonah).

I'm going to leave the original post at 5.8 to keep Jeff's comments relevant and because he made his comment after visiting the crack with Henry Barber(right?). HB had me laughing with his comments about Stannard's Crack at his slideshow. Mar 11, 2009
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
H-A-R-D...watched Tim thrutch up it with prcatically no gear through the crux because of the pump. Jun 7, 2009
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10
This thing is V1 and PG13. Might as well bring a crash pad, because your not getting gear in the crux. Sep 28, 2009
James Dowdy
  5.10- PG13
James Dowdy  
  5.10- PG13
Don't let anyone mislead you: this was never, ever, ever 5.8!!
It is a beautiful 10-; classic in every way imaginable - and, difficult to protect...
History?
Beauty?
Difficulty?
Exposure?
Man, this climb has everything going for it!!!

Downgrade it to 5.9 if you must - but please acknowledge how bold and prescient this was back when much of the world had minimal concept of 5.10...or even 5.9...

Kudos to John Stannard - a historically underrated first ascent!

Have fun,

Jim Mar 22, 2016
A .3 BD cam put in at while hanging down off the crux mantle hold seems like about the best and easiest gear to protect you. You'll Probably hit the ledge if you fall, but not sustain serious injury. Your belayer might be able to spike you to keep you off the deck. Nov 7, 2018