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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: John Fain
Page Views: 1,013 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on May 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

Smear and edge your way up passing one or three small gear placements...can be a little run-out. The angle eases off after the first 75 feet or so. Easy climbing leads to a short steep section before finishing up under the "Second Over-hang".

Location

Shares start with Special Edition but angles off to the right following the past of least resistance.

Protection

Trad. There are a couple sets of bolts at the top to belay from.

Photos

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RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
There are a couple of alternate starts to this route. For the start thats shared with Special Edition, belay at the lone pine on the rock ledge the same as you would for Lucy or Afternoon. The route goes up to the right of those routes, past some strange hidden cracks that can provide fingerlocks. For the right hand start that Paul described, belay over to the right at the right end of the rock ledge. Head up and then left along some small ramp like features to a point where you can step left and mantle onto the ledge where the triangular slot is located. The triangular slot is both a key hold and the pre-crux gear placement for Limited Edition. From the triangular slot, the route goes more or less straight up, past some TCU horizontals, to easier terrain and the double ring anchor at 30 meters or run it all the way to the anchor under Stanndards Crack. Jun 5, 2009
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
John Fain did the FA. Jan 24, 2009