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Routes in Main Face

Kid Fears Direct Start S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Afternoon Delight T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Balance Climb 7 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balance Climb 9 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edges to Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
First Overhang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
First Overhang - Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gather No Moss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kid Fears T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Latest Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limited Edition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Standards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overhang Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Slip and Slide T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Snake Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Special Edition T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stannard's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Cam Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Man Party Blue S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Green S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Man Party White S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two-Man Party Yellow S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 860 total, 8/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Dec 21, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

This one is a little harder to explain. It basically connects the main overhang in the middle of the Main Face with Balance Climbs # 1, 2, and 3. The belay point would be where those three routes end at the Army Cable route (5.0) that runs up the face. The main reason I noted it here is that it's a good one to use to link routes up to practice multi pitch on. It's easy climbing but it does run out quite a bit at the top before you can get a final piece of pro in to belay from.

Location

It starts about halfway up the Army cable route that angles up the middle of the main face. If you hit the cable from Army Routes 1, 2, or 3 then you are in about the right spot. Aim for the left side of the main overhang. As you get to the top you'll have to shoot thru some vegetation and then find a spot to belay from. If you rappel down to the cable route again you'll have to leave some gear unless you trust the little tree that is under the overhang. You could find your way off left if you keep following the headwall or you can pick a spot on the headwall or the overhang to finish it out and top out on the Main Face.

Protection

I believe there is one bolt at the start and then after that I placed one nut under a flake and then the route runs out a ways to the top under the overhang. Set up a belay with some slings or cams.

Photos

Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
I think what is described here is really Fat Bitches in the Sky per Dixie Craggers Sep 7, 2015