Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1995
Page Views: 9,248 total · 71/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Description

How did Porter miss this 'Heinous Cling' of the Red? This unbelievable orange streak of sculpted pockets & edges is surely one of the top five lines in the Red. Few lines anywhere rival this route for quality & continuity.

Despite its location far off the beaten path, OJ sees constant traffic even on weekdays, and should be on every 5.12 climber's list. With 90 unrelenting feet of technical face climbing split by great rests, culminating in a devious crux 70 feet up the wall, this route will test all of your face climbing skills, and more than a bit of your resolve.

Begin with long moves up the short slab. The angle kicks back at the first bolt, as a short warmup leads to the first crux at the second bolt. An engaging series of short boulder problems follows, all split by good shakes in the juggy horizontal bands that split the wall. Around the 7th bolt, one harder move leads to an enormous jug, just below the crux. Get a good shake here, figure out which tick marks to believe, and hang on as long as you can. If you're not hanging from the end of your rope by now, get one more good shake for another tricky section of 2 finger pockets & thin edges, ending at a huge horizontal break. A few more thin moves on slabbier terrain lead to the anchor.

Location

Follow the Funk Rock cliff line east past the large fenced off overhang, and past the slightly overhanging parallel bolt lines of Appalachian Spring & Seppuku. The wall curves in a bit just past these last two routes, and you will pass one more bolted line "There Goes the Neighborhood". Orange Juice is the next bolted line, climbing a heavily chalked, brilliant orange streak.

Protection

10 bolts, 2 BA.

Photos