Avg: 3.9 from 86 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Hugh Loeffler, 1995|
|Page Views:||11,041 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek|
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Despite its location far off the beaten path, OJ sees constant traffic even on weekdays, and should be on every 5.12 climber's list. With 90 unrelenting feet of technical face climbing split by great rests, culminating in a devious crux 70 feet up the wall, this route will test all of your face climbing skills, and more than a bit of your resolve.
Begin with long moves up the short slab. The angle kicks back at the first bolt, as a short warmup leads to the first crux at the second bolt. An engaging series of short boulder problems follows, all split by good shakes in the juggy horizontal bands that split the wall. Around the 7th bolt, one harder move leads to an enormous jug, just below the crux. Get a good shake here, figure out which tick marks to believe, and hang on as long as you can. If you're not hanging from the end of your rope by now, get one more good shake for another tricky section of 2 finger pockets & thin edges, ending at a huge horizontal break. A few more thin moves on slabbier terrain lead to the anchor.