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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: D. Lutes, H. Loeffler, D. Whelan, 1992
Page Views: 1,516 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

A 2-star climb that can be a 4-star classic if continued directly past the anchors and through L'ile Au Ciel for a 100' pitch. The climb was originally rated 5.12a, but I doubt it is really that hard. 11d might also be generous.

Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.

Location

Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).

Protection

5 bolts for H.J. plus the anchors, or better yet, 5 for H.J., one longer sling for the anchor, and 7 more draws for L.A.C. plus a few for the anchors on that.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.

Photos

Sarah Canterbury
Charleston, WV
  5.11d
Sarah Canterbury   Charleston, WV
  5.11d
I expected this to be super hard for me at 5'0 because so many people complain about it being "reachy." It was not bad at all - there are a few bigger moves down low but a lot of high feet throughout. Nov 28, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Jack,

Although I don't take you for serious to quibble about a single letter grade, it is an interesting question with regards to this rock.

Yeah, I've upgraded plenty too, about the same number as downgraded.
I formed my opinions about RRG when I was a local there in the early 90's. (Before climbing in Eldo).

Here is the history as I recall it, from when I was climbing, Primarily with Lynn, but a bit around with the rest of the guys who were down there and developed Funk Rock.

Hardcore Jollies was initially rated 12a by Lutes and Loeffler, which is why I didn't get on it at first. Gung Ho, the Reliquary and Tissue Tiger had put the fear of the 5.12 grade in me. And to note, Gung Ho was 12a at the time as well. So I'd kind of drawn a line at 11d for on-sighting. But the route became more broadly considered 11d, being easier than the 'classic' 12a's which preceded the development of this crag. So I finally tried it. thought it more like JackMac, Government Cheese, and BBBB than Gung Ho, Reliquary, or Tissue Tiger.

To note Loeffler also initially rated HeadStone Surfer as 5.10d (and it was published as such), but it is a consensus 10a. Hugh has a mighty wingspan and seemed to add to a grade to account for that. I think that was a factor in many of his early 90's grades. Or at least that is what Lynn Watson, our mutual climbing partner had to say about it. It is also what the route title 'Take That Katie Brown' is about, as she was running up his hard FA's and making light of the grade, but he found a really reachy crux.

So, 11d or 12a?
I don't know. When I put the route on the site here, I expected the consensus to be 11d, but I see that a majority of people said 12a. OK with me. Have fun on Frugal Chariot, (right next door), Twinkie, the Gift, Way Up Yonder, etc. They are "also 12a." Yep, same grade! Nov 15, 2016
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12a
Hey tony is there any route you have added online and not downgraded. Just curious, I'm sure in eldo this would be 5.9+. Righhhhht Nov 15, 2016
BrianWS
  5.12-
BrianWS  
  5.12-
Felt like a legit 12- for the first few clips, but eases up considerably. Jan 31, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
If you're any shorter than 5'10" or so, this thing is definitely .12 something. Reachy defined. Oct 30, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
Fun interesting moves.... i thought 12a (v4 crux) seemed right for me, i think it might be harder than that for shorter folk... Nov 14, 2010