Avg: 2.7 from 35 votes
Routes in Funk Rock City
|Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X|
|Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13|
|Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||D. Lutes, H. Loeffler, D. Whelan, 1992|
|Page Views:||1,516 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 4, 2006|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionA 2-star climb that can be a 4-star classic if continued directly past the anchors and through L'ile Au Ciel for a 100' pitch. The climb was originally rated 5.12a, but I doubt it is really that hard. 11d might also be generous.
Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.
LocationJust right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).
Protection5 bolts for H.J. plus the anchors, or better yet, 5 for H.J., one longer sling for the anchor, and 7 more draws for L.A.C. plus a few for the anchors on that.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.