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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FA: Bill Ramsey, 1998
Page Views: 867 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Seppuku climbs a beautiful orange buttress of impeccable stone on a slightly overhanging wall. Unfortunately water seeps from the 5th bolt hole which detracts from an otherwise stellar line. This route is a bit more burly than your typical RRG power endurance sprint. The movement is technical with a distinct crux followed by easier sequential pocket pulling.

Begin with easy, unprotected moves up to the big ledge. Probably best to leave the belayer on the ground, and pass the stick clip up to the ledge to pre-clip the first bolt. Climb the vertical, sculpted wall right of the bolt line to a bushy and often damp horizontal break. Move back left, to the top of a shallow right-facing dihedral. At this point "Appalachian Spring" heads left. Stay right, eventually working up to the top of the obvious, large, leaning right-facing dihedral and the wet 5th bolt. Cruxy crimp moves head back left towards the sixth bolt. With a building pump, big moves between generally good pockets lead to a small rooflet & the original rusty anchor. Make a couple more easy moves to a new anchor in better rock a few feet above.

"Seppuku" is the Samurai practice of ritualistic suicide. For a glamorized example, check out the visually pleasing Tom Cruise film "The Last Samurai". Not clear what that has to do with the climbing, but a cool route name nonetheless!

Location

Right of a large fenced-off cave is an orange buttress capped by a 10' horizontal roof. Two sport routes climb this buttress, beginning from a large ledge 10' up, and sharing the first two bolts. Seppuku is the right-most line.

Protection

~8 Bolts, 2 BA. Stick clip recommended to clip the first bolt off the ledge. There are a number of long sticks sitting on the ledge.

Water seeps from the 5th bolt, which is also the bolt that protects the crux. It appears that it would be a clean fall if this bolt pulled out, but use your own judgement.

Photos

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