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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: hugh loeffler, dave lutes 1993
Page Views: 1,022 total · 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

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Description [Suggest Change]

Start by stemming up the corner in to a section of moderate OW with stemming and laybacking and good rests... The crux is the last 10 feet or so where the crack gets thin and steeper... Here you will be jamming in a thin hands crack and stemming hard...

There is an extension at 5.11 that look burly hard and steep...

Location [Suggest Change]

As you walk in to Funk Rock City you will find this dark corner in orange stone just after the first couple bolted lines you encounter...

Protection [Suggest Change]

Regular rack will do but if you want to get some use out of your #5 and or #6 cams they will work on the easy part... Fixed anchor at the roof...


Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
The anchor at the top is an oddball. There is a passively chocked tricam at the top of the crack that serves as an artificial chockstone over which some cord is slung around to create a masterpoint with two opposed oval biners. I added another tricam actively placed with another carabiner just to get a little more redundancy up there. Jun 11, 2015
Michael Dom  
The anchor is no longer there. If you do this route plan on bringing up material to build an anchor.. If you don't want to build an anchor, continue on to the top over the bulge by climbing the right crack. May 10, 2016
Eli Staggs
Olympia, WA
Eli Staggs   Olympia, WA
Left a nut up at the anchor point and used the tri-cam that is rotting away. I definitely recommend not using it . . . but the nut is solid. You will need another piece to equalize. Jun 27, 2016

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