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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1992
Page Views: 968 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 12, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Frugal Chariott is a high quality climb with varied movement that would be a 4-star classic at most cliffs. At the Red its just another awesome sport route. An awkward, scary start, some sandy holds, uncharacteristically hard crux, and 'cheater' rest at mid-height detract somewhat from the quality.

Begin by scrambling up the decomposing ramp-boulder. It may be possible to fish in a 3/4" piece here. Mantle the boulder to reach an interesitng iron-extrusion knob. Head up & left on cool pockets and sharp edges. At the top of the vertical section, the brutal crux is reached: one long reach off a sharp thin crimp. Above the first bulge its possible to traverse completely around the corner for an effortless rest. Purists will shake from the large slopers on the bolt line. Continue over two more bulges, with a pumpy sprint between diminishing holds towards the anchor.

This side of the cliff gets a bit of shade in the evening.

Location

This is the first bolted route encountered from the approach, just around the corner, to the right, from a short, splitter, lightning bolt finger crack.

Protection

~8 bolts, 2 BA. You might want some trad gear to protect the awkward start, if your stick clip is too short to reach the first bolt, which is likely.

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