Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: D. Lutes, N. Strickland, 1992
Page Views: 3,211 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

One of the better routes in the Red. Climb up moderate territory on the arete past several clips and out onto a face, which is still moderate. Reach out over a bulging roof (still not hard) and start pawing up the real business, which are very small edges and a crappy scoop. I can't imagine that these have gotten any larger with traffic, so it would not surprise me if the route is a sandbag by now. No less, it is long, exposed and unquestionably fun.

Location

At the far right end of Funk Rock City, not far past Heastone Surfer, you walk out around and left of a huge corner/prow that is L'Ile Au Ciel and see a bolted arete and face. This is Prime Directive.

Protection

11 clips to the anchors.

Photos

PatrickBecerra
Hazel Park, MI
  5.11b
PatrickBecerra   Hazel Park, MI
  5.11b
Spoilers:

Don't try to pull the roof. There is a pretty good double hand ledge, and then a decent slot a little higher, but these lead nowhere. Instead, from the two good ledges just below the roof, creep out to the right around the arete. There are a couple decent feet, and a slopey ledge about one pad deep. Inch along this to a bigger ledge up and to the right, then pull and step on delicate feet up to a big pocket, then inch back left to the bolt above the roof. Feb 23, 2016
Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
 
Peter Rakowitz   Portland, OR
 
One of my all time favorite climbs ever. Nov 3, 2018