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Prime Directive
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 182
votes
Routes in Funk Rock City
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Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gyana Mudra T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just Another Trad Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Smokin' Joe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Snotrocket T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Trad Wagon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | D. Lutes, N. Strickland, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 6,970 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
One of the better routes in the Red. Climb up moderate territory on the arete past several clips and out onto a face, which is still moderate. Reach out over a bulging roof (still not hard) and start pawing up the real business, which are very small edges and a crappy scoop. I can't imagine that these have gotten any larger with traffic, so it would not surprise me if the route is a sandbag by now. No less, it is long, exposed and unquestionably fun.
3 Comments