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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: D. Lutes, N. Strickland, 1992
Page Views: 2,827 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

One of the better routes in the Red. Climb up moderate territory on the arete past several clips and out onto a face, which is still moderate. Reach out over a bulging roof (still not hard) and start pawing up the real business, which are very small edges and a crappy scoop. I can't imagine that these have gotten any larger with traffic, so it would not surprise me if the route is a sandbag by now. No less, it is long, exposed and unquestionably fun.

Location

At the far right end of Funk Rock City, not far past Heastone Surfer, you walk out around and left of a huge corner/prow that is L'Ile Au Ciel and see a bolted arete and face. This is Prime Directive.

Protection

11 clips to the anchors.

Photos

PatrickBecerra
Hazel Park, MI
  5.11b
PatrickBecerra   Hazel Park, MI
  5.11b
Spoilers:

Don't try to pull the roof. There is a pretty good double hand ledge, and then a decent slot a little higher, but these lead nowhere. Instead, from the two good ledges just below the roof, creep out to the right around the arete. There are a couple decent feet, and a slopey ledge about one pad deep. Inch along this to a bigger ledge up and to the right, then pull and step on delicate feet up to a big pocket, then inch back left to the bolt above the roof. Feb 23, 2016