Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: D. Lutes, N. Strickland, 1992
Page Views: 4,139 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Description

One of the better routes in the Red. Climb up moderate territory on the arete past several clips and out onto a face, which is still moderate. Reach out over a bulging roof (still not hard) and start pawing up the real business, which are very small edges and a crappy scoop. I can't imagine that these have gotten any larger with traffic, so it would not surprise me if the route is a sandbag by now. No less, it is long, exposed and unquestionably fun.

Location

At the far right end of Funk Rock City, not far past Heastone Surfer, you walk out around and left of a huge corner/prow that is L'Ile Au Ciel and see a bolted arete and face. This is Prime Directive.

Protection

11 clips to the anchors.

Photos