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Routes in Funk Rock City

Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Smokin' Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: N. Strickland, T. Crabtree, 1992
Page Views: 1,082 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A rarity in the Red, being a climb with a low angle crux, with small holds. Climb up pockets and horizontals past a few bolts and gear placements (small-med cams or tricams) and get into the business, a low angled slab with small holds. Continue to the shuts and rap off.
Lowering off and TR-ing are less advisable on this route, since the angle of the rock seems to create a twist in the rope as it goes.

Location

This climb ascends the low-angle wall (relatively low, anyway) just left of headstone surfer and just right of an arete.

Protection

A set of draws and a few tricams or cams for the horizontals between the bottom bolts.

Photos

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Tom Atkins
Carbondale, Illinois
 
Tom Atkins   Carbondale, Illinois
 
An excellent thin Crux midway challenges even the solid 11 climber.
Good stuff May 29, 2015
BrianWS
  5.10d
BrianWS  
  5.10d
The guidebook gives an R rating... if you only bring a rack of draws. Treat the first 25 feet as a mixed route, and it's as G rated as they get. Jan 31, 2013